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What Did You Do To Your Car Today?


Henz

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  • Filthy weeb
  • Member
  • Member For: 11y 10m 18d
  • Gender: Male

Yeah we wanted to do the bolt trick but didn't any that were long enough available (or something or I'unno, the brother said he couldn't do it - not to say he might've been wrong!).

Turned out a good overnight soak of WD40 and a bigger hammer finally achieved success this arvo. The rust build-up wasn't as severe are you pictured Phil, but it was still pretty heavy with it. All on now and... there doesn't seem to be as big of a difference as some suggested it would. Bite's about the same but seeing where the pads are contacting on the rotors, we're getting less than half contact, so I guess once they wear in properly and use all of it they'll be much grippier.

But hey, the old rotors were under the minimum accepted width so they definitely needed to go, and we should be all systems when I get the roadworthy next week now.

Oh and hawlass, there is definitely something you can use to prevent future corrosion - my brother says he uses it on his car - but I can't remember what it's called. I'm guessing someone here will know.

EDIT: OH YEAH! Where's a good place online to order the locking wheel nut adaptor? What with the new wheels being put on and the pads/rotors and wear and tear from tyre joints being heavy with the rattle gun over the years, the special grooves on it have finally sheared away. Last thing I need now is a flat and no means to remove all the nuts.

Cheers.

Edited by stubbietubbie
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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 1m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Buy new wheel nuts, throw away lock nuts. Do it before the key splits or shears off completely.

You can't buy the key any more, the company that made them...no longer makes them.

Plus they are no obstacle to someone stealing your rims.

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  • I'm getten too old for this s**t
  • Bronze Donating Members
  • Member For: 11y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: A big bridge over a river in South Australia

More chance of getting him to stop breaathing me thinks ;)

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  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 5m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Western Australia

Looks like lots of hard work , do you put anything on the bare steel to try to prevent future corrosion? I assume driving in the rain /puddles will just start it happening again?

I tried some sort or anti-rust aerosol last year on my taxi, but when I went to remove the disc rotors again a few months later the stuff was acting like a glue and making it difficult to remove the discs.

If anyone knows of something that will prevent corrosion but not glue the disc to the bearing hub then I'd love to know about it.

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 1m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Some sort of oil? I guess things get very hot in there though. High temp suitable grease? I also guess you don't want it being spun out on to the rotor...that would be bad news!

What about a very thin stainless plate?

Edited by -Stever-
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  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 5m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Western Australia

Some sort of oil? I guess things get very hot in there though. High temp suitable grease? I also guess you don't want it being spun out on to the rotor...that would be bad news!

The problem with something liquid is that it will create suction between the disc and bearing hub... effectively gluing the disc to the hub.

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  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 19y 3m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

I wouldn't be applying anything that could potentially fling out and contaminate the pads.

If you think it's going to be an issue drill and tap the disc hat with a couple of 6mm jacking screw threads.

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