Fg Custom Stereo Install, Alpine + Dls + Pg

[FG-viper-XR6]

Hi everyone I'm new to this forum first time ive posted. I recently started installing a stereo into my FG as I wasnt impressed with the premium sound. Thought id share a few pics with what ive done so far.

I didnt want to put up with the hiss from the stock stereo so decided to install an aftermarket head unit. Its an Alpine CDE-135EBT.

I cut a fascia out of 6mm mdf and had some vinyl put over it. The head unit was hard to fit we had to cut the plastic behind it because their wasnt enough depth.

Its sitting their with some foam under it for now as I plan to fix it permanently after I buy and get the steering wheel contols hooked up using a PAC SWI-RC.

I forgot to add that I had to buy an antenna adaptor. It cost me $20 made by DNA, ford uses the same adaptor as Kia and Hyundai part number is KI-11.

Ok here is is pic of my new battery Optima yellow top with some battery terminals I brought from supercheap. I cut the stock power and ground wires and mounted some 4ga ring terminals onto the end of them. I plan to move the silver negative off the fuse box bolt and fix it direct to the body at a later date. My amp power cable is Cadence 0ga which I covered with the black loom tubing to make it look more stock. Feeding it through the firewall was easy but running it down the drivers side to the boot took some time as their wasnt a lot of room. The Cadence positive fuse holder I cut a piece of 9mm MDF painted it black then tech screwed it to the body so it would sit level.

Ok onto the front and rear doors. I have installed 2 sets of DLS ultimate 6.5" splits.

Removing the door skins didnt take long, I went to bunnings and brought a Kincrome T25 screw driver cost $9 to undo the security screws.

To remove the door skins first I got a small flat screw drivers and stuck it under the silver plastic door handle trim and gently lifted it at the narrow edge closest to the door hinges until the first clip popped out then worked my way along by hand there was x2 more clips.

Now you will see there are 2x T25 security screws to be removed.

There are also 2x T25's at the bottom of the door skin and 1 inside the hand grip section under the rubber. Now start at the bottom of the door skin and gently work your away around towards the top popping the door skin clips off, the door skin will now lift straight up and off then unplug the door handle cable and power window plug.

I cleaned the inside of doors with wax and grease remover then used a heat gun some small blocks of MDF as I didnt have a roller to stick sound deadener. I used car builders deadener cant tell a difference between that and dynamat extreme but it only cost $220 for 2 boxes total 40sq/ft so heaps cheaper.

I made my own speaker pods using 16mm MDF the front pods are 32mm thick with 2 layers and the back pods are just 1 layer at 16mm plus a custom tweeter holder using 6mm MDF. I sealed the MDF with clear then black spray paint incase of moisture so it doesnt swell or warp. The pods are mounted using 25mm x6mm bolts with washer and nut

. front doors

back doors

I had to trim the plastic speaker suround off the inside of the rear door skins so it wouldnt hit the tweeter mount.

The tweeters for the front splits I mounted into the ford a pillers. They just fit using factory mounts my tweeters are 3x bigger than stock tweeters.

I used my own 14ga speaker cable and made my own looms their is a spare gromet above the main door loom that I used. It was a little tricky my speaker cable comes from the mid speaker to the stock plug where I sliced a small hole underneath in the loom rubber to feed the cable out off then toward the front of the car into the front gaurd then around the doors hinge back towards yourself and into a spare gromet. The doors open and close without touching the loom.

My crossovers the drivers side one is under the drivers seat and the passenger crossover is up under the dash.

For the rear doors if tapped into the stock speaker wire that goes through the door jam plugs but am not very happy with them as they are very quiet compared to my front splits using 14g speaker cable prob has something to do with the fact the speaker wire is not even 18ga. Their been run of a Phoenix Gold x200.4 rated at 236wrms per channel the splits can easy take their rated 150wrms each with highpass filter set at 60hz. Until I have the money and know what im doing sub wise I have just mounted my amp onto some MDF inside the boot temporarily so its a bit messy.

Im using stinger 6000 series rca leads and have a fused 0g in 2x 4g out disto block.

Since I disconnected the factory speakers my reverse sensors were not making noise but the camera is working, ive reconnected a speaker onto the rear channel of stock unit and turned the sonar setting up to full and just leave the stock on aux.

Ill be sure to update you all when I decide on what sub or subs. Please tell me what you think and any ideas are welcome.

[Shyfrd]

Awesome job mate, good to actually read one of these builds and they've finished it. Well except for a sub lol. But make sure you come back and update it when you do find one and install it

Great write up with plenty of pics, should be stickied mods!

[Panda Eyes]

nice first post mate. I have twin 6.5" splits in the front doors of my ef, and man do they crank...

also for good car audio connectors, terminals, distribution blocks etc- try jaycar. good stuff.

welcome to the forum...

Edited 02/07/12 11:47 PM by Panda Eyes