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What Can A Stock Motor Take?


nitro xr6 turbo

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  • Member For: 13y 3m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: perth wa

hi guys, just wondering what the "safe" limit on power is for a fg engine?(and any other modle just out of interest)

mine is a 10/09 xr6 turbo.

whats considered safe? 350?, 400?

I know some of you are pushing over 450rwkw on a stock motor, any failures?

I just mean oil pump/rods/pistons, I know I might have to do valve springs.

I quite like the idea of 400rwkw :3gears: but not if im going to explode lol

cheers, andy

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  • Member For: 14y 5m 17d

There are quite a few out there (myself included) running 400+kw on a factory motor, not sure how long it will last but its my daily driver and barely gets 200KW shoved through it on a daily basis so should last longer than I have the car. So long as you prep all the supporting mods and service it regularly and consistantly, you should have zero problems. Safe power limit would be what ever your wallet can afford to fix if something were to go wrong. So if you cant afford to fix it, dont modify it. 400+Kw is heaps of fun but hard on components, driveline especially, rear tyres need changing alot more often than when I bought mine. This is just my 2c though,I am sure others will have something to say.

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  • Member For: 13y 3m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: perth wa

cheers for the input mate. im a mechanic and do plan on tearing down the motor at some point but not any time soon. I supose bending a rod would be a good exuse to get off my ass and do it lol.

I do city kms and change my oil every 5000.

what about the zf? I take it its down to luck on whether it was built on a friday like most autos, plan on getting it tuned before the car which is said to help.

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  • Member For: 14y 5m 17d

I think to bend a rod you need to be pushing a shed load of boost, I think Chris from Rapid found this out, pretty sure he pushed it and bent/broke a rod some time ago. Not sure about the ZF I think the only thing not to do is have the ZF tune done when making that much power it typically snaps input shafts with some sticky tires I have heard. I have a manual and just upgraded the clutch and flywheel to support the power, next thing I need is diff and a driveshaft replacement cause this one is farked.

Being a mechanic you are in a good position not to spend too much money when/if rebuilding needs to be done. I want to put oil pump gears into mine but the cost is pretty extensive and I have heard so long as you dont rev the pi55 out of them regularly you can safely run the factory gears for a while (atleast till I can afford to upgrade anyway). Ithink the next upgrades for me is suspension/brakes and driveshaft before more engine mods

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  • Member For: 16y 3m 1d
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I agree with everything said in above posts except about not getting the zf tuned. I would say get it tuned because it makes the auto feel alot better to drive, input shafts im pretty sure are stronger in fg's then the bf's and you will only break it if your stomping it and letting the auto kick back itself because with a tuned auto its pretty f*cking savage or your running slicks at the strip. Drive it half sensible and it should be fine.

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  • Member For: 18y 9m 17d
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  • Location: Sydney NSW

I think to bend a rod you need to be pushing a shed load of boost, I think Chris from Rapid found this out, pretty sure he pushed it and bent/broke a rod some time ago. Not sure about the ZF I think the only thing not to do is have the ZF tune done when making that much power it typically snaps input shafts with some sticky tires I have heard. I have a manual and just upgraded the clutch and flywheel to support the power, next thing I need is diff and a driveshaft replacement cause this one is farked.

Being a mechanic you are in a good position not to spend too much money when/if rebuilding needs to be done. I want to put oil pump gears into mine but the cost is pretty extensive and I have heard so long as you dont rev the pi55 out of them regularly you can safely run the factory gears for a while (atleast till I can afford to upgrade anyway). Ithink the next upgrades for me is suspension/brakes and driveshaft before more engine mods

Yes 35psi bent 3 rods and broke a ring, cracked a skirt.... but as Ive said many times, this was from a massive "lean backfire" of which the fuel system completely ran empty ( part of my R&D and data lagging in real time ) The motor did happily handle 25psi for a year befor , plus many quick 30psi pokes on the freeway.

This shows the importance of a big fuel system and not running the tank too low, even my 4lt surge tank didnt save it due to the main tank being so low... cant pump into a surge tank if it isnt there to pump.

If you plan to build the motor, aim for 400wkws, with all the correct supporting mods it "should " be fine, but dont be driving round thinking its bullet proof, lots of other factors can make them pop, but usually fuel related... over boost = lean mixture = bang.

Correct, accurate boost control (wastegate/actuator/tune) , good cooling and flow from intake , IC, and exhaust and good solid fuel supply is ultra important if you want the motor to stay in one piece.

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  • Member For: 15y 10m 2d
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I have 453rwks with stock unopend engine in my FG and if anything the ZF is feeling it a little. engine is 100% and done over 120,000km aswell

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  • Member For: 13y 3m 24d
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  • Location: perth wa

thanks so much for the top info lads. I think 35 psi is a bit extream for me lol

from what I heard/can imagine 400rwkw is more than enough for the street so I think that's what ill aim for.

as a mechanic I know the dangers of running lean so I will deff be going down the safe road with surge tank wastegate mod etc etc.

just out of interest whats the most anyone has got from a stock bottem end?

cheers, andy

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