Starting My Xr6 Turbo, Possible Fault After Mods Or Power Failure?

[Lime Turbo]

Hello everybody, sorry this is so long!

So I havnt had my xr6 turbo for long now, so I thought it would be a good idea to finish my ride. I know already that my 06 BF MKII XR6 turbo had a nizpro intercooler kit installed, along with a 4" downpipe, and twin 2.5" hotdog exhaust system, and bigger injectors, and a bullet (sniper) tune by BPT performance.

that's great, but I wanted more, so ive then installed a walbro 300 lt ph (800hp rated) & fuel filter, as well as 3" cold side, and 2.5" hot side piping for the nizpro intercooler. (This together removed the cross-over), and fitted a 4" induction kit and air box (plazmaman) which goes in place of the original battery. (still waiting for second tune)

Now I gave you all that detail for a reason, the problem is starting the car, dont get me wrong it starts everytime..... but at a cost. I have to wait for the fuel pump to stop whining & make sure my stereo Amplifier isnt on at the same time (running twin subs)..... otherwise nothing!! I personally installed the battery in the boot with 0 guage cable, and a 250 Amp fuse inbetween to protect myself. I also earthed the battery at two different places in the boot (its properly installed, even with gold plated contacts) I should also note that I bought a new (sealed) battery at this time as the other battery had dead cells (shat itself), I drove the car home without the battery functioning that time, so the alternator must be working fine, correct? ....... I was stuck I had to do it!

I am completely lost what the problem is, I should be able to just get in my car and start it, but I have to leave the ignition on for a few seconds before turning it over. I know it isnt the startor motor because I have just replaced it (same size as original battery) !! Should I buy a second battery and have two, one for the engine and the other for audio? Will this fix the problem? You should also know that if I do turn the key without waiting, all I hear is a clicking noise? This has only happend since ive had the fuel pump and amplifier installed, and the battery moved (all installed personally).

If anybody has any idea at all, any pointers or facts that could help, PLEASE let me know I will greatly appreciate it,

Luke

[Wenier]

If you have a big audio setup there is a different type of battery that you should be using as it is designed for the large draw that the audio system will always take. In saying this that may not be the only problem but seems like it would be.

Edit: Check this out, it might help

Edited 15/03/12 05:32 AM by Wenier

[freeze_dk]

Clicking means dead battery,, but weird that works sometimes

[Lime Turbo]

Yeah thanks guys,

Ill go get my new battery tested, and might get my alternator checked while im at it. If its the battery not having enough oomph, then that's an easy fix.... just means I bought a battery for nothing haha.... I should have asked here first

Thanks for your help, ill keep you informed even if it takes a while to figure out

So next question is, where do u recommend buying a perfomance/high crank battery from? Im in Perth?

[bionicxr6t05]

A capacitor for the audio system may help? Battery install sounds spot on

[Gasman]

Definately get the altinator checked after running with no battery. An auto elec once told me that people who run they're cars without the battery connected help keep him in business.

[Lime Turbo]

@ Bionicxr6t05 - Do you think buying a bigger battery (Higher Crank Amps) & a capcitor will help, im running a digital sony amplifer with twin Alpine Type S 12" Subs & a Pioneer Deck, The amp pumps out 250RMS to EACH Sub?

@ Gasman - Thanks for the tip, ill deffo get that checked. Do you have any idea how expensive a new alternator is.....incase they give me the bad news :/ And probably a stupid question but is there any alternators that are better than the stock one?

[Gasman]

Never had to buy one but read here the bosch Item is inexpensive

[bionicxr6t05]

If the battery wasnt completely open circuited the alternator should be ok but its easy enough to test, even without a capacitor I think an optima yellow top would be sufficient to run what you have and start the car perfectly, are you SURE your starter motor is ok? Test current draw while cranking under the conditions in your first post

[Lime Turbo]

UPDATE: FINALLY!!

Hopefully there is some useful information here, and I dont sound like an idiot haha

So I took the car to a battery and electrical shop, the guy tested my battery, and found it had 450 cranking amps (when it stated 600, "super charge" brand).....should have know!

He then tested my alternator and everything is fine in this area, was charging the battery fine and maintained when accelerating....if that makes sense.

The guy then checked my two earthing cables which were installed in my boot, he said they were way to thin (wrong guage), he he cut me some new higher rated cable, crimped it and put a better, thicker, bolt through it (I now only have one earth cable) - apparently the bolts and washers I used for the earth were s**t as well lol.......funny coz I checked with a guy in jay-car before I bought anything, wanted to do it right the first time.

I then bought an equivelent battery to an optima (same battery structure, but had a higher higher CCA), replaced the old battery and he then tested the car again with the new battery. This battery was putting out 1050 Cranking Amps.....no Bulls**t! and the new earth helped as the car now starts on the dot. every time. The battery cost me $320 bucks, he done the rest for free. and it solved the problem......finally

Thanks for all your help