Fibreglassing Sub Boxes

[Azid]

cheers mate

im a little confused though. In some the youtube videos I watched they used a thinner stuff they paintbrushed in which im sure is the resin. Then when it dried they used a thick stuff they coated it with, is this an alternative to the strips of mat u talked about. Do u use the resin, put sheets of mat down, resin, sheets of mat down 4-6 layers, let it dry then sand it smooth?

[XAH03]

Do u use the resin, put sheets of mat down, resin, sheets of mat down 4-6 layers, let it dry then sand it smooth?

Yep this is what I do.

With the stuff they put down before this could be a gel coat which is virtually the same as the polish to make it easier to release the mould.

[Azid]

Interesting cheers mate. So somehow the mats go hard and form with the resin to sand down in the end

[1NSANE]

Just to add to this, you don't need to body fill and sand if it is out of sight. As an alternative you can use carpet as well. Sanding is a sh*t load of work and it has to be ultra good when painting.

Ben

[knoles]

Interesting cheers mate. So somehow the mats go hard and form with the resin to sand down in the end

Yeah kind of like when you dont clean a paint brush after using it with paint or glue. The resin is the "glue" and the mat is the paint brush. The glasssing is quite a slow process, make sure you make it strong enough. Then putting the body filler over the top and sanding is quite a long and tedious job as well. On outward curves you can use an air or electric sander but the inward curves are fairly hard to get into and I did most of it by hand. The problems I had where getting the mat to attach nicely to the sub mounting rings & the top to bottom join and this is where it cracked eventually and having the paitence to put enough mat down. Im only a hobbyist so maybe a pro could share some tips? Make sure you are in a well ventiated area, should probably wear a respirator, wear goves, put talcum powder on your arms before you touch the mat (this clogs your pores and helps reduce itchiness), have plenty of acetone on hand and have an area set up to clean up once your done.

I did the spare wheel well, I brushed on PVA release, let it dry for a while, put resin, mat, resin, met, resin, let it dry, popped it out, chopped it down to size( did this to ensure it would fit back out the boot hole, put it back in, put a heap more layers down to strengthen it, let it dry in place so it didnt distort, tidied up the edges, mounted the sub rings (check it will fit back in the hole), stretched over fabric (apparently spandex is the best as it stretches really good and you dont get the creases) and glassed the top, let that dry, rough sand down, bog, sand, prime, sand, paint, DOOF DOOF.

[Azid]

U got pics knoles

[knoles]

I looked and looked ad couldnt find any of the painted box I did, I have some of a completed boot install but that ones all carpeted and doesnt show any build pics.

[peter_125]

hey guys, im attempting a corner moulded one tomorrow. Just wondering if I can put 2 layers down in the boot, then let it dry then pop it out and put more layers on even if its dry?

[Azid]

As far as I know yeah that seems to be what people do just really tape up boot as sh*t gets everywhere

[1NSANE]

Yeah that's what I did on my old car.

Ben