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For The Mechanic Out There


Power Jet

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 10m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA

Well, you missed the milky oil bit in your first post, quite a critical bit on information.....

There are only really a few places where water can enter the oil, and first suspects would be head gasket, warped head, or if you run a Ford oil cooler, maybe it has split and allowed water into the oil.

Most likely you have had water enter from the head, and there is a good chance that you have lost compression on cylinder 1, either due to compression leak through head gasket (best case) or a broken ring land due to some kind of over pressure, possibly due to water in the cylinder.

The turbo blowing is hardly a surprise if you have had a lot of water in the oil, as it will turn to steam in the bearing housing, displacing any oil in there, and probably 'gas locking' due to rapid expansion of steam, overcoming the oil pressure.

My 2c worth

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  • Member For: 18y 10m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: North West Hot Hell,VIC

Between Ratter and Ninka there isnt much more left. You might just have to recheck a little better.

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  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 10m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: North West Hot Hell,VIC

haha. I shouldn't laugh guys but found the problem today. Nice crack in cylinder 1. New block and start again. Could a crack in the cylinder bore cause the water to go into the oil :(

Ummmm ................Yes.
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  • Member For: 16y 6m 3d
  • Gender: Male

guys that's the depressing part :(

I already built the motor in Feb just gone. Mahle pistons, atomic rods, port and polished head, oil gears. So instead of changing oil every 5000km, I do it differently and change a ENGINE EVERY 5000KM. *cries*.

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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 5m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

a decent engine builder would take the time to do a sonic test on the bore walls to find min thickness , lots of ppl just wack new bits in a old oblong block or never pay to have the bores at least honed to start from somewhat clean slate

only time this is half excepted is when the owner has a go at building a donk with little knowledge, but enough to get it back together again

sorry for your loss

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  • Member For: 18y 5m 19d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: @ my laptop

a decent engine builder would take the time to do a sonic test on the bore walls to find min thickness , lots of ppl just wack new bits in a old oblong block or never pay to have the bores at least honed to start from somewhat clean slate

only time this is half excepted is when the owner has a go at building a donk with little knowledge, but enough to get it back together again

Which is what I was trying to point out in Dillz thread re engine builders, there is so much more to an engine build to just putting new pistons in the holes

Edited by ratter
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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 10m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA

Which is what I was trying to point out in Dillz thread re engine builders, there is so much more to an engine build to just putting new pistons in the holes

Having done this a few times - Hear, hear

The list of things to check is looong, and you have to be ready to scrap items which are not up to scratch, for whatever reason.

From memory, I think Atomic only use about 60% of blocks they look at, as others suffer from one problem or another, and wall thickness inconsistencies is one of them.

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