Jump to content

Tutorial - Gauge Install


Gussa

Recommended Posts

  • 5 months later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 9m 10d
  • Gender: Male

Just got my tripple gauge holder from SS inductions today. Pretty impressed I must say. The 2 x autometer cobalts (boost and oil press) I ordered from the US also got here today, so I'm nearly ready to get fitting. For those of you who are after some autometer electrics, just get them on Amazon. Cheapest price anywhere and also crazy cheap for shipping (around $12 from memory). I'm just waiting on a PLX DM-100 touch to come in to make up the final of the three. I figured I'd like to do what I can now, so am going to source some nuts and washers for the cobalts, so I can cut the threads back and fit them to the cups. I've also seen another howto on here which creates a jiffy box for fusing & a pot for the dimming, but was hoping to just piggyback off the stock wiring to keep it much simpler and just use an in-line fuse for each gauge. Sounds like F6Fury's got the pic I'm after, although getting the cluster out sounds like a major PITA. Also that and I'm not super keen on splicing into my nice stock F6 loom :oooh:

What route have most of you guys gone? Jiffy box tapping off the cigarette lighter? I'd also noticed a few of you guys saying that your boost gauge in particular weren't calibrating correctly. In the autometer installation instructions, it states that you need to find a 12V supply that has power even whilst the car is cranking, so that the gauges can correctly calibrate. Without this, the gauge will be off. Only an issue with boost apparently.

Also my oil pressure sender only gets about 3 threads down into the speco sandwich plate.... Not sure why, but it looks like the sender is tapered? They're both 1/8" NPT so they should be compatible. Are yours all the same? :rock:

Cheers,

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 13y 9m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gippsland

Good work mate.

As seen in the first post, I went the Jiffy Box option. Didn't like the idea of loom splicing. Installed them a while ago now and had no dramas.

As for the constant supply, I investigated this (can be read on the first page of topic) but found it had the reverse effect (-30 to -15 Vac).

My advice to you would be to try the Cig12VDC first, and see what readings you get, if they are consistent to what the car is tuned to, or if stock, around the 10+/- mark, then I would just leave it. If you get readings that are obviously incorrect, maybe look further into a different supply.

Off memory I am pretty sure mine was tapered, have you tried it with a spanner to see if it will screw in further? Pretty sure mine went further than 3 threads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 9m 10d
  • Gender: Male

OK. So I fitted gauges and got most of the wiring done (except the sensors) on the weekend. Removal of the ICC want actually not too bad! Wiring was a bitch though, spent ages taping up the gauge loom and placing in the standard cable paths with spiracord. Ended up using the engine start button for constant 12v and earth and then tapped into a brown wire at the top of the ICC for the accessory wire. It was the only wire in the near vicinity that I could use. Only issue now is the dimming as bloody hell the gauges are bright at night!

Today I took a look back through this thread and realised that F6FURY was using a brown wire behind the cluster so I decided today after work to pull the cluster out and investigate further. Now using a multimeter, I am unable to find a 12v accessory wire that reduces as you dim the lights/ICC from the dash!? Ideally I'd like to do this so it all dims as one unit, rather than having a separate pot for the 2 gauges only.

Obviously this dimming is controlled from dash, so figured I could just tap into this circuit... Appears I was wrong.... or at least I can't find it without a wiring schematic.

My question for F6FURY is do your gauges dim with the dash?

On a side note, it was a major PITA to try and fit the PLX controller box under the dash. Ended up velcro'ing it in the section to the left of the steering column.

I await some feedback before I put all the trims back, lol.

Cheers,

Rob

Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 9m 10d
  • Gender: Male

Just to confirm mech boost gauge won't fit in a ss pod on a fg? Also is there a way to get trans temp from a zf?

It will fit but you'll have to cut out the back of the pod to make it fit. Why would you want a mech one anyway? The elec ones work perfectly.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 10y 10m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth SOR

Where is the best place to get the Autometer gauges from? I noticed the photos in the OP have disappeared, maybe I'll take picks of all my pick up points and install, it may help some people.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 9m 10d
  • Gender: Male

Where is the best place to get the Autometer gauges from? I noticed the photos in the OP have disappeared, maybe I'll take picks of all my pick up points and install, it may help some people.

Got mine from amazon. Was the cheapest I could fine anywhere.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
  • Create New...
'