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Replacing Ba Bottom End.


FLY.555

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  • Member For: 14y 10m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Ah I get you now.

It probably will as its a 4 speed auto and only so much mapping of the auto box can be done.

If that is the case it would then be a long atomic 698 engine and manual conversion but that's something that can stay for another year and maybe another ute if I import another.

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  • Member For: 14y 1m 21d
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  • Location: Mt Gambier, SA

Midnight, if you are getting a short built, why not get better rods, and forged pistons while your at it.

Then at least it will handle the power, and you wont have to do it again later.

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  • Member For: 14y 10m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

Midnight, if you are getting a short built, why not get better rods, and forged pistons while your at it.

Then at least it will handle the power, and you wont have to do it again later.

As im not really going for big power. And the BF rods will handle it easier over the BA rods.

A 10psi or 12psi tune is good enough for me if im being honest and more than a handfull up where I live.

Im not an endless supply of cash either as splashed out on a supercharger for my srt8 Jeep :S

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  • Three pedals are better then two..
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  • Member For: 17y 6m 6d
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  • Location: Melbourne

Bolting on an fg short requires minor modification where's are putting in forged gear requires a lot more labour doesn't it? That's where the cost adds up.

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  • Member For: 14y 10m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aberdeen, Scotland

So I hear about the FG block but as atomic are building it and shipping it, this makes an easier option to just bolt up and no need to retune just yet.

Anyway back to the op original post.

Plenty ways to sort the bottom end out lol.

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  • Three pedals are better then two..
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  • Member For: 17y 6m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

It would be good if someone that's done it could put up a bit of a expense list so people could get an idea of what's involved.

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  • Member For: 17y 5m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: south east suburbs

Ah I get you now.

It probably will as its a 4 speed auto and only so much mapping of the auto box can be done.

If that is the case it would then be a long atomic 698 engine and manual conversion but that's something that can stay for another year and maybe another ute if I import another.

There isn't anything wrong with a ba engine provided it's had regular servicing and a good tune , as well as the btr 4 speed built and serviced frequently , mines been going for 4 yrs now and not a problem as yet.

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  • Member For: 13y 9m 27d

It would be good if someone that's done it could put up a bit of a expense list so people could get an idea of what's involved.

that's exactly what I'm after. I'm not after a huge power monster just around 340/350 rwkw. If only I bought a bf haha

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  • Member For: 13y 10m 22d

I'd go the spool kit + oil billet pump gears & ported housing and hd valve springs if you want piece of mind, as even bf engines have let go making 330-350rwkw.

All depends how you drive and look after it.

Even with a fully built motor it can still pop. Performance comes at a cost, that being $$, reliability and drivability. Costs big $$ to have them all.

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