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Intake


salv

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  • Member For: 14y 4m 27d
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I understand everyone needs to make a profit, I must be missing something though, a blu power (looks plastic to me)passenger side is 650 whereas a billet plazmaman race air box is 465???

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Umm induction noise is defianately noticable. Not amazingly loud but enough to know there is a nice sexy garrett strapped to it..

However with the stock intercooler the flutter was insanely loud. unbareable to say the least..( I guess some people enjoy that though)

Now that I have a different cooler it sounds just how ive always wanted it :)

The pod is about 9inchs long, I guess if you had a smaller one it would be slightly quieter again?

If you were asking if it was loud after using the aluminium box. I wouldnt be able to tell you as I never started the motor without it sorry.

Edited by MX Dave
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  • I see a red door and I want to paint it black
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yep should have seen one of the high priced mobs defending the airbox and amount of R&D that went into it over on AFF. Used a heap of big and little words in ways they were never meant to be used, most people went for it hook line and sinker.

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11347315 - link to epic thread, a couple of people have put the stock OTR snorkel on as well as an airbox.

"The first and foremost reason is something that as a head porter I learnt a lot about in the mid 90's. Something called laminar flow.

When we were flow testing pipes, we found that the inlet pipe would lose peak laminar airflow if a secondary inlet pipe was added."

Free lesson in fluid dynamics for you all - laminar flow cannot be achieved inside an airbox, laminar flow cannot be achieved on the short path to the v8 throttle body, laminar flow cannot be achieved with the NA 6 pipework, laminar flow cannot be achieved through a factory crossover on the turbo. So how did they flow test the pipes and discover laminar flow . . . in a wind tunnel with smoke?

The second reason why we dont like the inlet pipe, particulary on the battery side is that if you allow the thermo fans chance to heat up the box, you offer the oppurtunity for residual heat build up after the thermatic fans kick in and transfer it INTO the box, which is a disaster.

This is NOT something you will see on a dyno, but you will see it in traffic and stop start driving. We have hundreds of hours on over 5 of our own test cars, boosted and NA to support this.

Come on do I reall have do explain this.

1) in stop start traffic are you really going to be using enough throttle to worry about the hp you are missing

2) heat transferred from a short length of pipe near a radiator is enough to heat up the whole airbox and all the air in it and kill your 1/4 mile time . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . really, come on don't make me go all doctor karl at this time of the morning. measure length of pipe, pick a speed, work out amount of air passing through pipe per second at that speed, work out how many joules needed to heat the air in that pipe by 1 degree celcius before it reaches airbox = radiator at temps hot enough to melt the block.

but luckily bunna and arronm and a couple others provided a voice of reason in that thread.

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  • I see a red door and I want to paint it black
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not only those ones mate, if I reckon people are getting ripped off I'll speak up about it, no matter what it involves. Things like the difference in price for a product in the USA and OZ, even when dollar went from .70 to $1.10.

if I see something that I think is unfair markup then I'll speak up and/or take my money elsewhere

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11347117 - another stooge mob that charges too muchy

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  • Member For: 14y 2m 1d
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I think a Typhoon (or similar) intake with K&N panel will do a better job than any of these fancy pod filters (discounting all the other downsides, including noise, time, cost)

Might look inpressive under the hood, but that's about it - used them in my cars previously with very poor results for $$ spent. Each to their own and no "right" answer (under bonnet view for the OP might be more important that it is for me!), but that is my experience...... :rap:

Edited by CBXRT
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  • Member For: 18y 3m 1d
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  • Location: Perth - WA

I remember back in my WRX days some guys did some power testing with the OEM and various aftermarket intake options. They found that the stock airbox & FILTER would not present a restriction, until you reached around 500kW. Which was pretty rare for an EJ20. So everyone that did perform modifications to the OEM setup was only doing for looks or sound, and did not give a performance improvement. I'd hazard a guess at saying the Ford OEM airbox would probably be good for 600+kW.

With respect to the temperature increase while sitting at the lights I have this: My WRX had an Autronic with a temperature sensor installed in the upgraded Top Mounted Intercooler. This allowed me to monitor intake temperature post intercooler while driving. When sitting at the lights, sure enough the temperature would skyrocket, and on a hot day, you would see upwards of 60-70C. However, as soon as you start moving, and I'm talking about maybe halfway across a traffic light intersection the temperature would be down to a couple of degree's above ambient. This suggests to me that heat soak is a very very minor problem for almost all daily drivers, and people trying to design air intakes with this design goal in mind are wasting their time. If it was such a big deal we would see OEM manufacturers go to much greater lengths than some moulded plastic and convoluted pipe.

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  • Three pedals are better then two..
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Didn't Mick do some testing and an airbox made significantly more power?

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  • Member For: 18y 3m 1d
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Is Mick a vendor with a vested interest in making money? (not a dig, just curious)

I'm just going off what I learned from various people that were doing this sort of thing 10+ years ago. I find it impossible to believe that Ford/FPV would have an Airbox that is so restrictive that xxkW can be liberated from a small increase in volume of said airbox. If they wanted a deliberate restriction, why do it this way? There are much better ways of 'restricting' the engine so as have it perform in certain ways, and the over-hyped airbox restriction is an elaborate one. You can go on just about every single car forum on the internet and most people will say "oh yea, put a pod on, you'll get more kW doing that." I find it very hard to believe that most 'performance' car manufacturers are installing restrictive air boxes in their cars. Particularly in this day and age where gains in efficiency are paramount.

Also, a 20-30% increase in engine power is not going to equate to a 20-30% loss in flow through an OEM air intake, it doesn't work like that... Believe what you like, but I've done some testing of my own, and unbolting everything back to the turbo made very little difference at daily power levels most people achieve. Having said this, I'm happy to listen to anyone that may have done testing independant of a workshop or individual with vested interests.

Edited by Gonadman2
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