F6 Typhoon Wheel Alignment Issues - Brisbane.

[Ralph Wiggum]

My car was the same, didn't matter how wheel it was aligned it would still pull left. On the advise of the local tyre shop guy (who happens to set and race circuit cars) I added 1deg more castor on the left. left is 8.2 and right is approx 7.4. Tracks straight as an arrow now and has good feel through the wheel.

[45T-XR]

  On 25/11/2011 at 10:07 AM, Ralph Wiggum said:

My car was the same, didn't matter how wheel it was aligned it would still pull left. On the advise of the local tyre shop guy (who happens to set and race circuit cars) I added 1deg more castor on the left. left is 8.2 and right is approx 7.4. Tracks straight as an arrow now and has good feel through the wheel.

I got taught to do alignments that way too, works a treat

[chubbs]

no news as yet, wrote a stinking letter of complaint to the garage that I bought the car from, so waiting to hear back from them about what they intend to do first, then I'll get it sorted out from there.

funny though, when the mechanic had finished doing the alignment there, he said, "yeah, it's within the tolerances of what ford state"... does that mean that it still pulls to the left out the factory?

I'll give them till tomorrow to come back to me as that will be a week since I wrote to the dealer principal, so lets see if they can actually do something right for a change..

[WADEY351]

your problem is castor related, basically its moving the wheel forward in the guard ( in simple speak ), you should have about 1 degree difference left to right. I.e the left reading should be about 8 degrees to the right of around 7. this has the left hand wheel 'leading' the car so it doesnt run with the slope of the road. dont worry about this guy who has done it previously, there is no such thing as manufacturers specs when it comes to wheel alignments.... so basically avoid him at all costs!!. you can get a small amount of shims in the factory mounts on the upper control arm but depenind how bad it is I dont know. a suspension place can install a camber/ castor kit that will fix this problem.

basically you want as much castor that you can get. 1 deg negative camber left, 0.75 neg camber right. this allows for you when you are in the car. 1.3 mm toe in to offset the higher than normal camber. while your at it the rear should be set to 0.2 mm toe in. that isnt normally done but it works well when lowered.

by the way this from 15 year experience. just go to a suspension shop....not pedders and send the dealer the bill