Thought Id Show You The Damage A Simple Fitting Does.

[CBXRT]

  On 15/01/2012 at 1:42 PM, AzidRush said:

For anyone that is still unsure REPLACE stock filter NOW! It is tiny and completely useless and causes turbo failure. I didn't know how pathetically tiny the stock filter was until it blocked up and I blew my turbo. It's impossible to imagine what ford were thinking but $100+ for a good earls one it is definitely worth it. Pretty positive rapid sells them too for a good price

My filter was fine after 180,000kms. My line wasnt though and got clogged up (excess heat over time mech told me) somehow so either way get an earls line and filter for anyone that hasnt done it already, it may not be just the filter itself.

On topic, am I the only person who thinks a new block for the OP is overkill? Sure, the small crack is not ideal and Atomic will be better, but wouldnt you keep it in until it failed and then replace? Or am I missing something?!

Edited 17/01/12 12:16 AM by CBXRT

[Impellor]

There is a fair amount of debate in regards to the inline screen, although there is no debate that it roots the turbo. Its not if, but when. After doing some research this is what I found. The factory screen filters down to 70 microns. The Earl's inline filters down to 85micron but this can alter with a different filter. Now heres the kicker a good quality oil filter, filters down to 25 microns. Now intially there was some concern that by having no filter at all, you risked too much oil going to the turbo bearings causing failure, however this is not the case. As there is an inbuilt oil restrictor located at the turbo oil line entry point. Now some have said that there screen was not blocked but the oil line was. This 99% of the time is at the turbo entry due to heat. I believe that this occurs due to reduced oil flow (created by partial blocking of the srceen), and coking occurring due to heatsoak. Also in relation to the Earl's line, melting has occurred to some products. And for me the factory line appears more robust.

So what I did (still without ill effect) and many others was to remove the screen and not replace it. My person view is that the oil filter is filtering up to 3 times finer material anyway, and that the maximum amount of oil as possible is better for heat reduction, and therefore coking is a lest likely phenomenon. Also the vehicle retains its factory look. For added protection every time I do an oil change I duct tape a magnet to the lower side of the oil filter. But I concur with what has been said over and over, get rid of the screen or at least replace it regularly, or use an after market replacement, because I personally believe that either Ford, or Garrett have added this little piece of engineering in the name of built-in obsolescence that will occur after the warranty has expired. Knowing the most likely place you will go to buy a new one is them, Cheers

[riptide]

I agree Impellor, seems like the filter or line blocking completely is the main culprit. My oil supplier recommends using a good full synthetic oil to avoid coking in the line so I will be taking his advice since he is letting me have it cheap

[CBXRT]

  On 17/01/2012 at 9:30 AM, riptide said:

I agree Impellor, seems like the filter or line blocking completely is the main culprit. My oil supplier recommends using a good full synthetic oil to avoid coking in the line so I will be taking his advice since he is letting me have it cheap

Yep, I agree.

Think my mechs may not have used the right oil as it was always(a bit too) cheap and I didnt think much of it until now. Who knows, could have made a big difference over time........

[MidnightXR6]

  On 17/01/2012 at 12:14 AM, CBXRT said:

My filter was fine after 180,000kms. My line wasnt though and got clogged up (excess heat over time mech told me) somehow so either way get an earls line and filter for anyone that hasnt done it already, it may not be just the filter itself.

On topic, am I the only person who thinks a new block for the OP is overkill? Sure, the small crack is not ideal and Atomic will be better, but wouldnt you keep it in until it failed and then replace? Or am I missing something?!

Why would I want to keep running the ute when its pouring oil from the thread which in turn could starv the turbo of oil and loss of pressure?

Pluss being 1000's of miles from Australia im not taking chances.

My atomic built engine is currently in London awaiting its flight to Aberdeen.

The block could be fixed with welding but the chances of distorting the block are too high with the heat needed and I dont want to run the risk.

Id rather have all the new bits and be happy.

[Paulie2256]

Hey mate, are you currently talking to Chris at FTG? I may be mistaken but have you just ordered a turbo oil feed line and filter?

[MidnightXR6]

Im always talking to chris. Im ordering another filter nut to go along with my new water pump, thermostat and hoses.

I did contact him on the facebook page if that's what you are on about, as it seems my work email is down an im not recieving or sending mail.

[Paulie2256]

Sorry was thinking it was an oil feed line for turbo. Was going to advise against it and let you know about the earls filter with braided line. You may already know about this?

[MidnightXR6]

I do but nobody on ebay wants to ship me one to uk :(.

I take it the earls one just goes in place of the nut and metal pipe?.

Also see its better to get the original metal earls and not the new one with plastic shrowding on it as thks fails.

[Paulie2256]

Yes to both points.

Surely the supplier will ship one overseas. Doesn't have to come from eBay.

I think rapid and etm sell them.