The 400 Mission

[CHLAXN]

I changed my valve springs took 11 hours with the Atomic tool.

I went with the Atomic 34psi springs have never had a problem since. I used to have the nizpro items

but they were

Don't get it a tooth out. My car idled like crap turned it off for 10 minutes and restarted, got told that it was the lifters draining out.

yeah I got the atomic tool and same v/springs as you to go on.. just the instructions that came with it are for BA/BF which the front sprockets are a bit different on the FG and cant use a shifter to hold it and undo the sprocket bolt so looking into buying cam shaft clamp to keep the cams in right position and not muck the timing up.

[Dillz]

I just love my G6ET, I'd marry it if I could. Probably best car I've owned, even with all the mods and power upgrades still a very daily driver.

Just hate to see you walk away and not fully enjoy what you have done to your car.

Couldn't agree more, I'm at that stage now lol.

[IH8TOADS]

I have a 66mm compressor wheel in the stock 0.5 cover and I have jammed boost in hard like I normally do. I prefer te car to be as wild as possible down low.....top end is over rated for general street use.

If the lifters don't bleed down you run the risk of wetting the plugs to the point that the car won't start, keep that in mind when doing the springs!

[383ongiggle]

Would eboost help you get up on boost any earlier?

[djqc]

I'm open to anything that will get the car on boost earlier!

[IH8TOADS]

Depends on how the car is tuned. If tuned in open loop boost control in 4th for example it will be laggy in any gear below 4th and potentially overshoot in higher gears. If tuned in closed loop then the wastegate duty cycle will vary in order to reach the boost pressure than has been desired at a particular RPM and manifold charge temp.

The eBoost is a combination of open and closed loop IMO. The set point determines the 'desired' boost pressure and the gate pressure stipulates the PSI at which the actuator will start to open. So doesn't matter what gear you are in, a particular boost pressure needs to be reached before the gate will start to open....thus eliminating lag. With open loop via the stock system, the duty cycle is a fixed value so in lower gears when the engine has lower load, less boost is produced compared to when the engine is in higher gears with high load.

In short if your car is tuned in open loop then an eBoost can be used to bring boost on earlier without getting a computer re-tune.

[ALF05T]

I have similar mods to yourself. I have the 4" intake with the 2.5" hot side and my car comes on boost much earlier.

I think it's the tune, almost everyone else running this setup is in the low 400 zone.

I have spoken to many tuners from Adelaide and Sydney and they agree it's good bang for your buck mod.

A very good turbo for the street for traction and minimal lag.

[djqc]

I have a pretty big intercooler along with a big exhaust so that might be the difference between having my car come on late or early. I would love to see the dyno sheet come on early and have a steep incline then plateau in the top end.

[wa g6et]

Man this is all so technical now. From what I see the complexity of these turbos is like expential when you start chasing power.

Something to be said sticking to a good ol'fashion n/a V8.

[djqc]

By going with the gtx series turbo, and not the largest of turbos... I thought the power, boost and torque curves would have been near on vertical at 3000 and plateau at 4000 with a nice 400kw flat line. Now this is all wishful thinking and the dyno graph proofs otherwise, but how I see it is.... If I can get lots of boost in early, it will make more power, more efficiantlly because the car is on a steady rise all the way through to rev cut.

Now the question is. How hard can this be, and is it worth chasing the pipe dream?