JETURBO ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE... Gold Donating Members 23,708 Member For: 16y 7m 21d Gender: Male Location: Adelaide Posted 31/03/12 03:48 AM Share Posted 31/03/12 03:48 AM kiwi...... ninka has an extensive knowledge history on the b series and he is correct. but in saying this your not the first to bolt up a turbo to a n/a block and wonder why it goes so frikking hard , but u already seem to have an understanding and it is due to the hi comp of the n/a bottom end vs the turbo bottom end. I have seen this combo (n/a bottom end) see nearly 380rwkw through a stall and other decents mods for it to go like a freak almost unbaleviable the power it had and almost no lag..........................it lasted a decent 6 months but it had an end date stamped to the project from day dot .what u have is a time bomb and a piece of string situation, but good luck and hang around u may learn something 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wenier Donating Members 1,736 Member For: 15y 3d Gender: Male Location: Christchurch, New Zealand Posted 31/03/12 06:01 AM Share Posted 31/03/12 06:01 AM I saw a 6 locally to me that may have been a na with the turbo added or could have been a turbo from beginning but it sounds quite sick when he tried to put the power down. Think someone had been playing with it like it was a subbie or skyline etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninka Donating Members 1,850 Member For: 22y 28d Gender: Male Location: Perth, WA Posted 31/03/12 06:46 AM Share Posted 31/03/12 06:46 AM Sorry if I treated you a bit harshly kiwi......, all I wanted to do was to flag to others, that while sourcing a n/a engine for next to no $$ and bolting it into an XR6T may sound tempting, it is fraught with potential for another serious engine failure.Good luck to you, and it will be interesting to see how long it lasts.Oh yes, the main difference between n/a and 'T' engines are: Different piston (design and material) with different comp. ratio and floating gudgeon, different Con Rod, different Exhaust Valves (Inconel vs stainless) and Valve Springs. The rest of the long engine is pretty much the same, except sump has a hole for the Turbo to drain the oil into. BA and BF engines are very similar, except Cam Phasers and the aluminium head casting associated with them is different, and cams are different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwiforddvr Member 10 Member For: 12y 9m 22d Posted 01/04/12 10:50 AM Share Posted 01/04/12 10:50 AM Thanks for the advise ladz and soz if I came a cross a bit of a wankJust I've had heaps of slack for doing this conversionI'm just running standard boost and no I'm not flogging the guts out of itI actually only get to drive it once maybe twice a week as the wife uses it for a daily runner. The only other mod I've done is replaced the oil line to the turbo with 6mm int twin wire high temp hydraulic hose ( using correct fitting)As for going so freakn hard as one of the ladz put it , it does go heaps better but wallet and licience tell me just to take it easy....Do u guys think it will hang out if it driven modestly n not cained??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninka Donating Members 1,850 Member For: 22y 28d Gender: Male Location: Perth, WA Posted 02/04/12 12:19 AM Share Posted 02/04/12 12:19 AM It will probably hang in for a while, provided you take care with things like fuel choice and the way it is driven.Listen out carefully for 'pinging' as your potential for this is higher with a high compression ratio, and with stock rods and pistons, you are at higher risk of damage.Many years ago I converted a 2l 4 cylinder ford OHC engine to turbo, running standard compression ratio, and I had it for years with no problems, boost was low though.Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwiforddvr Member 10 Member For: 12y 9m 22d Posted 02/04/12 01:18 AM Share Posted 02/04/12 01:18 AM Is it best to run waste gate through the electric solenoid or run hose direct ( will this lower the boost) Cheers for the advise ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninka Donating Members 1,850 Member For: 22y 28d Gender: Male Location: Perth, WA Posted 02/04/12 05:06 AM Share Posted 02/04/12 05:06 AM Stock BA boost is around 6 psi, which is what the solenoid will open at. If you bypass the solenoid, and your car has the stock actuator, then boost will be lower, probably around 4 psi depending on age, condition of the spring etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwiforddvr Member 10 Member For: 12y 9m 22d Posted 02/04/12 08:12 AM Share Posted 02/04/12 08:12 AM Actuator is brand newSo if I bypass solenoid will this be better for the n/a engine I'm taking in wot u r saying so less boost is best?For longjeperdy I'm meaning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now