Fg Manual Sedan Axle Tramp

[TORN8O]

Im running stock reset leaves, pretty low, but not bump stops. I only used to get it with my low power tune. Doesnt get it with race tune...

Also traction control will causes it and sitting on bump stops will definatly cause it. The traction bars are relatively cheap thought.

Yeh I'm taking it back soon so we can cut the bump stops,but hope it doesn't ruin the 4inch exhaust.bugger all room under there. We even re did the bushes with poly n still does it.

[Tim]

I have an FG sedan with an auto which while it has always axle a little bit, last night it was doing it very badly. Nothing had changed, the only thing I can think of that the cooler air is giving a bit more power. Car only has 20,000 kms on it. There is a bit of driveline shunt when geting sharply off the power. I assume it may be a diff bush. My rear tyres are getting a bit thin too.

My axle tramp starts about half way through first gear and after a brief period of smooth wheel spin.

Any help to stop this would be good. I might try Ford for the diff bush at next service. More info on these bushes would be good.

[Smoke them tyres]

The blade links are the curved arms that run forward from the bottom of the wheel hubs next to each wheel.

They are a good idea and are meant to control fore/aft movement as well as rotational which is the tramp, but the std bushes have so much movement in them that it renders their intended purpose pretty useless.

I would replace those first as they are a pretty simple remove, replace bushes and refit scenario.....3 bolts at the back/hub end, a clip/tie to hold the wheel speed sensor cable and 2 nuts at the front dogbone mount.

The diff mount bushes take a right hammering if wheel tramp is not controlled and they will fail if it continues to tramp. When I fitted the blade link bushes to mine, I could physically feel in the car that wheel control under power and over bumps was waaaaaay better. No tramp to date, but mine is making nowhere near the power of some. Tramp can also be mitigated by driving style.

If you do get the diff mount bushes done, be sure to replace all 3. If you only do the rear, that stiffer bush will put in too much bending load and the bolt will eventually fail. Then the whole unit WILL have to come out.

If I had one criticism of the way Dana have designed the rear end it would be the mounting of the diff centre and the ultra soft/voided bushes. Surely in this day and age, ALL of the manufacturers can come up with something better than a material that has not changed much for the last 40 years or so. As for the design of the rest of it, it is actually quite good and the suspension geometry is actually better than the front.

[Banned1]

good write up there smoke ! I will replace the trailing arm bushes (blades as you aussies call them ) and see what happens ! It's horrific but I tend to slip the clutch in smoother now but having a manual with launch control means it should be able to be dumped fairly hard and not tramp!