General I6 Questions

[Risking]

I build and develop race cars for a living it's my business. For years I've been stuffing around with nissans and the RB26 engine.

I'm about to embark on a new workshop project.

The car is an r32 skyline but I'm throwing the idea around using an xr6 engine.

So I'd like to know what if any are the differences in top and bottom ends from base model xr6 na engines to the turbo and f6 range?

I'll be rebuilding whatever I buy and doing a dry sump conversion do if I can get away with an na engine I'd rather do that.

I am also considering using two 3540's with tial stainless exhaust housings.

I will be searching for 380-420kw.

What sort of engine work is required for this to be possible? I realize pistons etc but I hear stories about valve springs etc??

Any advise people can offer would be greatly appreciated.

I'm sure there will be many more questions I have

[Stazza_Brendan]

Differences in most models. Rods, pistons and valvesprings the main ones. General rule of thumb is the later the motor the stronger it is.

If your going to do a full rebuild with new internals most of that wont matter. FG heads are a bit different but I cant remember if they are better or worse then the B series.

[Adam]

380-420kw at the flywheel or wheels?

You won't need to do much (if anything) to make that sort of power at the flywheel from a BF or later engine.

[Henz]

420kw won't require a rebuild, especially behind a manual.

Buy a fg bottom end, any turbo head and throw some decent valve springs in. throw some oil pump gears on the motor and that's all you need.

The fg head with the fg manifold would be the best I don't think it would clear the bonnet. You'll have to go an aftermarket plenum.

If you really want to rebuild one, an Na block will do it'll just need oil lines tapped into it.

[Risking]

Thanks so far.

I'll be looking for an at the wheels figure.

In saying that I want to get a season of racing from the engine so reliability is paramount.

Is there any difference in the heads na to turbo?

[xr6t4life]

the exhaust valves are stainless steel on the turbos to handle the extra heat, I wouldnt be using a n/a head unless u are doing some porting and new valves which u wont need to do for 420rwkw.

if you are doing a full season of racing it might pay to get a built motor as 420 is on the limit of the stock rods

[Benny]

You wont need two turbos either. One should do fine, just make it a good one. T04Z seems popular from reading around here or even a modified factory 3582R.

Benny.

[Risking]

I'd planned to change valves, seats, guides etc as normal car preparation.

I've heard stories about weak valve springs? Any truth to what I've been told?

I'd be changing rods and pistons as part of a rebuild so that's not of great concern.

I have a few 3540's with tial stainless steel exhaust housings. I was going to try and utilize them in some way before paying for a new turbo.

I own and run the workshop which owns the car so whilst having a reasonable budget I'm also trying to use any existing parts to save costs if possible.

Do these engine suffer any oil surge or pump issues?

I plan to dry sump the thing as it's again part of the car build I'd always do but curious to know if they have an inherited weakness in the oil system

[Guest XR09]

Squizz over what these guys do...http://www.atomicperformanceproducts.com/698gta_short.html Arguably the best at it.

[Henz]

With a manual you should do the oil pump gears and housing mod for more reliability.