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Calder 23/4


chook

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  • Member For: 14y 7m 27d
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  • Location: Melbourne

yeah I took you advice and drove it in performance mode as well and I think mine might of just touched on the limiter as well but was thinking that would it be better to short shift 2nd to 3rd and to 4th ? I reckon the auto wants to rev it a little to hard and it would keep it in the meat of the torque? Also I reckon std cooler is probably hurting it at the end of the track..cant wait for the coooler to arrive and perhaps relocate that battery and see what happens..

We tried short shifting at about 5500rpm to keep it more in the torque band and it went slower, especially in mph. After last times limiter issue, I even brought an autometer multi stage adjustable shift light tacho, to play around with shift points(manually), but found there to be no good tacho pulse to tap into, it's now on my mates VH :fool: . Performance mode(other than on the 1-2 shift) seems to produce the goods in mine, although I've never tried normal mode, that could be worth a look? If I can achieve 11.8-9@117-119mph with injectors, cooler and cat/cat pipe replacement, that will see me out for the distant future.

Edited by vx8255
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  • Member For: 15y 1m 17d
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  • Location: Werribee

Manual mode is the way to go

Just have to be quick to change on the 1-2 shift other than that other gears are alot more easier to shift at the right time.

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  • Member For: 14y 7m 27d
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I agree with your statement for anything with some power and torque(more than 350rwkw, 8000n of tractive effort), but on these lower powered examples, it seems to need it's neck ringed out just before the limiter to aid in recovery to the next gear, if I could of got my shift lite to work that would of been the ticket in manual mode, otherwise the consistency is just not there, I don't like guessing 200-300rpm off the factory tacho. But each to their own, you do whatever gives the results. I think the auto software could be a good thing, when it's finally finished and can be flashed stably.

Also I reckon std cooler is probably hurting it at the end of the track..cant wait for the coooler to arrive and perhaps relocate that battery and see what happens..

Are you getting aftermarket piping with you cooler? As I believe the stock piping is absolute junk. It leaks at the joins(even if repeatedly tightened), expands under boost and has even been known to burst under the right conditions.

Edited by Dagabond
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  • Member For: 14y 4m 29d
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We tried short shifting at about 5500rpm to keep it more in the torque band and it went slower, especially in mph. After last times limiter issue, I even brought an autometer multi stage adjustable shift light tacho, to play around with shift points(manually), but found there to be no good tacho pulse to tap into, it's now on my mates VH :fool: . Performance mode(other than on the 1-2 shift) seems to produce the goods in mine, although I've never tried normal mode, that could be worth a look? If I can achieve 11.8-9@117-119mph with injectors, cooler and cat/cat pipe replacement, that will see me out for the distant future.

Yeah I was thinking the same thing about just leaving it in drive...hmmm maybe when I fit the cooler ill try it!

I totally agree 11.9-11.8 would see me out as well! cant complain with that kinda times for a car that you drive to the track with.

Are you getting aftermarket piping with you cooler? As I believe the stock piping is absolute junk. It leaks at the joins(even if repeatedly tightened), expands under boost and has even been known to burst under the right conditions.

Yeah I will be getting piping! but I was watching the boost guage all the way down the quarter and it was holding 15psi all the way down beautifully

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