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Bf Turbo Help


LazyBrennan

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I had, 5" hi flow cat, 2x2.5" cat back exhaust, pod hanging off the turbo and didnt get a engine light, and the car ran fine. I did get it tuned after although and the tune made a huge difference.

If you get a engine light from a hi flow cat its probably because the heatsheild over the dump pipe has been bumped when the Cat was installed and is touching the wires on the oxy sensor.

just make sure your boost regulator is clean and on firmly to the pipe to the turbo and it shouldnt overboost

oh and oil.

nulon 5w-40 full synthetic 6.6Ls worth

ryco oilfilter will do for $10-

and I got RDA slotted for the front $160ish from the keysborough store.

no warps and still pull up hard after 20,000kms

if the spark plugs havent been changed in 80,000+ kms , you may wannaa do that too?

and maybe replace the diff oil

Edited by Dagabond
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LazyBrennan. Go with DBA rotors. Pads are up to you.

Dont need a tune if you dont touch the cat.

Air intake is fine to change.

Cross drilled do crack.

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Cheers for that man. As long as I dont get that stupid check engine light ill be happy haha. So can I change the cat to a 100 cell or 200 cell with out the engine light coming on? If I leave the cat back stock. Any cats recommended? Any cats I can buy and just bolt on my self? So I can avoide paying someone to do welding. I do like to do as many things as I can my self. Also I think I will just get the center muffler removed for now then if the cat back is good up to the 300 mark. Will do the muffler and cat make the check engine light come on?

The check engine light is the least of your worries. Its when a rod comes out the side of your block that you will need to worry about.

Seriously, dont change the cat. If you want to hold off on the tune for longer, change it, then get them to run it up on the dyno. Maybe it will be right, maybe it will go boom...

As for Pads, speak to Race Brakes...

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oh and oil.

nulon 5w-40 full synthetic 6.6Ls worth

ryco oilfilter will do for $10-

and I got RDA slotted for the front $160ish from the keysborough store.

no warps and still pull up hard after 20,000kms

if the spark plugs havent been changed in 80,000+ kms , you may wannaa do that too?

and maybe replace the diff oil

Cheers for that mate. As for diff oil, Doesn't the whole cradle have to come out on the sedans? As for plugs. Do the coils over the plugs just pull up? Or is there a certain way to get them out? And is it just a deep 5/8 socket with a magnet or rubber to get the plugs out? Any plugs recommended?

Thanks mate

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See here:

Coils just pull off, check them for cracking on the rubber boot. When installing plugs, make sure you put copper grease on the thread and dont do them up too tight.

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  • Formerly EGOBFXR6
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LazyBrennan. Go with DBA rotors. Pads are up to you.

Dont need a tune if you dont touch the cat.

Air intake is fine to change.

Cross drilled do crack.

BANG! Good answer Rudiger!

Yeah come to think of it, I have a cat-back and an intake and I can still drive the car stock... :blink:

Just use good products and you'll have a great car running at it's best :spoton: It's amazing how much a little maintenance can make your car feel and run like new!

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Yeah no doubt, My plan is to just refresh everything. Engine oil, diff oil, coolant, trans cooler, some other maintenance tips I have found on this forum to do with solenoids I think they are? Plus TB clean out. :icon_ford:

See here:

Coils just pull off, check them for cracking on the rubber boot. When installing plugs, make sure you put copper grease on the thread and dont do them up too tight.

Thanks for that mate :D

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  • Formerly EGOBFXR6
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My plan is to just refresh everything.

That's a really good idea mate.

New filters, fluids and cleaning out boost solenoid/TB, new plugs etc will be great for the car!

You'll love it mate - All the best :spoton:

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Hey guys.

Just want to know is it common for these cars to get compression problems like the boss 260 engine? Any way to tell if the car has that problem when test driving?

Cheers

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