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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 1m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Blacktown!

its been a while since I was into car audio but last time I did the dyno mat thing I also put it on the back on the actual door skin aswell as over all the hole like you have done. Did it also on the hatch of the pulsar to stop it rattling.

Heres a little tip also on the back of the number plate as I hate hearing cars drive past with a vibrating number plate due to alot of bass

If you cant afford more dynomat I just used body deadener from supercheap, looks like black tar crap but does the job in consealed places to add weight to body panels

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 7m 18d
  nifty said:
been thinking of doing this myself, mind if I ask how much it cost you, how much you needed and where you got it from?

it cost $245 all up-purchased off ebay

I purchased the extreme bulk pack

comes with 9 big sheets of dynamat

you will use 2 sheets for each door, 2 for entire boot lid, left with 3 sheets, probably best used inside the walls of the boot and rear parcel shelf

  ravenhard said:
its been a while since I was into car audio but last time I did the dyno mat thing I also put it on the back on the actual door skin aswell as over all the hole like you have done. Did it also on the hatch of the pulsar to stop it rattling.

Heres a little tip also on the back of the number plate as I hate hearing cars drive past with a vibrating number plate due to alot of bass

If you cant afford more dynomat I just used body deadener from supercheap, looks like black tar crap but does the job in consealed places to add weight to body panels

I did also put alot behind the number plate, its the entire front of the boot rattling its head off!

iv still got 3 large sheets left over,I will use the on the rear parcel shelf and boot walls. puting more on the bootlid wont help

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 5m 27d

that's good stuff expensive though, I am suprised in my ute I got 2x 13.5' jl w3 and the only vibe I get is the mirror which has snapped off twice now from bass and the interior light but when it up loud you can't hear it lol, makes your eyes jitter and give you a heart murmur. lol

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 7m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne, VIC

I have 2 12" Type R subs and my boot rattles like crazy...

Thanks for sharing your results as I'd probably be doing some sort of sound deadening in the future, I still need a proper box to fit the boot and secure it in tight... hopefully that will get rid of some of the rattle im gettin and then deaden it up...

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 10m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Queensland

I was a custom audio fitter for 5 years. We used to glue high density foam to the outer door skin, behind the speaker. This difference in sound quality was noticeable as the standing waves that cause cancellation were reduced.... You should be able to source some for an auto trimmer.....

We never dynaMatted the outer skin. We felt that it was not needed. Dyno matting the inner door is greatly beneficial and is not just for reducing rattles. It actually reduces the leakage in the doors. If the negative frequencies behind the speaker can flow around and meet the front frequencies you will get frequency cancellation. Eg:- Connect up a speaker and run it whern it's sitting in your hand. It has no bass as the two (Front and rear) frequencies can meet... Now hold it in the hole in the speaker hole in the door... WHAMMO... You now hve bass.....

I hope that this helps...

  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 7m 4d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Mildura

did you do inside the boot wells behind the trim and under the parcel shelf??

I wouldnt be complaining yet about improvements cuz your only halfway there mate.

  • flame magnet
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 10m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: adelaide hills- 'race air' central

you'll find the boot rattles a most probably the sealer they put between the frame and outer panel has come loose. if youre serious then try to remove it and add some new sealer to it. if youre gonna use a caulk like substance then make sure its NEUTRAL cure. acetic cure will eat at your panels causing rust. and NEVER use expanda foam as it will get between the frame and boot lid and dent the panel badly.... :banghead2:

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 7m 18d
  Trough Lolly said:
did you do inside the boot wells behind the trim and under the parcel shelf??

I havnt done them areas yet, I will be doing them early next week.

I thought after doing the boot lid it would reduce at least a little of the bad rattling, has not done much at all.

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 7m 3d
  • Location: Mackay QLD
  Quote
I thought after doing the boot lid it would reduce at least a little of the bad rattling, has not done much at all

its cause the outer skin has come away from the boot frame. need to get some sikaflex in between there then put the dynamat back on.

I think it IS beneficial to dynamat the inside of the outer door skin.

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 7m 18d
  sicklaser said:
its cause the outer skin has come away from the boot frame. need to get some sikaflex in between there then put the dynamat back on.

where do I apply it??

I looked into the bootlid and there isnt anything inbetween the outer and inner skin of the lid, its all open there isnt something for example like in the doors,the bar that runs across the centre and holds the outer skin.

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