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Fg Custom Tray Build


STAINLESS again plz

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  • Turboless
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  • Member For: 13y 9m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Geelong, Victoria

Looking good. Take your time on this build? How long you guesstimate this one to be done? So much little stuff to be done lol I'd take months upon months. And that's if I had the weld skill you have lmao

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  • You've changed man....
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  • Member For: 13y 11m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: 2 Fuchsia Court, Narre Warren. 3805

Am doin it in spare time so will

Probably take a wile. Actual hours on the job wont be to much though. The main issue is trying not to mark it incase I go with polishing it. sh*t takes twice as long when you cant just throw it around.

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  • Turboless
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  • Member For: 13y 9m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Geelong, Victoria

Yeh I remember doing some work experience before my apprenticeship. Doing fix out..god help me if I dropped sh*t on the timber haha

Sit it on carpet and against the wall then? Those edges too..keep the tools away that'll dint lol

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  • Member For: 16y 4m 23d
  • Gender: Male

that's alot of welding, what you use to grind the welds down flush? that's why I decided to go with steel its easy to put flapper disc on and get it smooth and then can bog it and paint it to make it look flush, you will have to get them joins perfect, not doubt you can...will looks good in the end

im not a fan of the square corner rhs, will be interesting to see it finished

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 13y 11m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: 2 Fuchsia Court, Narre Warren. 3805

that's just a test piece. The actual rhs has radiused corners :)

Workin with stainless for last 15 years, sanding welds flush and blending for dead flat mirror finish is no problem. Dont worry, there will be pics haha. There are definately wrong ways to do it and once polished if its not done right you will pick it a mile off.

You can take the bulk of the welds off with the flappy disk as long as your only hitting the weld not the material. Then take it down flush with sanding pad with a fresh 80-100 grit disk on it.

I just hit it straight off with the sanding pad. Trick is to keep it as flat as possible to the material, and make sure its cutting rather than rubbing the weld off. If its rubbing it can tend to flex the pad when pressure is applied and can follow the shape rather than sand it off. This can result it it removing the material each side of the weld and when polished u see it bad.

Just take the weld right down until you only just start touching material each side for the entire length of the weld. The final cut should be one more hit with the pad/disk pulling toward you holding disk as flat to material as possible. That means flat on the left right axis aswell as the forward back axis. It should be as wide a cut as possible. Do not chase any low spots/holes,scratches with sander. Stop and fill them up with weld. The more material you remove the wider you need to go to blend it propperly.

Do not go back and forwards once your down to the rhs. Every time you stop and change direction that fraction of a second u sit in one spot removes more material there, do that and yep, once polished u see it miles away.

Edited by STAINOnegger
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  • Turboless
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  • Member For: 13y 9m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Geelong, Victoria

Sounds damn hard haha. Just a walk in the park for you now though I reckon lol

Reminds me a bit like spray painting at the end of what you said, when you go back the other way if you don't let go of the trigger or you take too long, the ends get more paint than the middle and runs appear etc

'cept what you said and do......harder; 10 fold. Hahah

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  • You've changed man....
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 13y 11m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: 2 Fuchsia Court, Narre Warren. 3805

Its exactly like that shy. Was actually gunna use that as an example haha. But cbf. Was long enough post already.

There was somethin else I was gunna say but that new I <3 Bananas ghey boy band has ruined it for everyone.

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