Fg F6 Stalling Problem

[turbotrana]

You would think what your tuner did would work but there are so many unseen tables to do with idle control you just don't know what is going on sometimes.

I have been thru every table in HPTuners and at the end of the day it seems its not the WOT or part throttle stuff that is hard to sort (its relatively straightforward as you have access to most of the relevant maps), its the idle stuff that is hard to sort out as you dont have any access to the adaptive idle stuff.

Nevertheless as I stated above the timing adjustment does work in my case but I think it introduced a minor unintended idle behaviour that I am not clear on.

In my case is was lowering the timing around 600 and 900 Rpm/0.15 and 0.40 load points that were on my map. I found 30 degrees was fine. No stalling.

I would like to find out if SCT can access much more in the idle areas than the HPTuners but I doubt it.

I find the non-live software really frustrating as the reverse engineeed HpTuner Software only gives a small picture of what is going on.

[FGX 40T]

Hi Turbotrana - did you put your standard injectors back in and reflash the stock tune? I am very interested to see if the problem went away. I will tell my tuner what you have done and see what he thinks. Cheers

[turbotrana]

I bought the car modified but I spoke to the tuner and he said the stalling was there prior to the mods.

I was considering starting from a stock tune with stock injectors to get rid of the problem.

For the moment reducing the timing in the mentioned load/rpm points does work for me (No stalling) but there are other issues that I am trying to understand . From my limited understanding of the Ford ECU but pretty good understanding of timing maps, I really dont like the way how the Ford ECU was tuned in the idle timing dept. I can easily see that should the tune be out of wack in some way the way the timing map is done can make it hunt.

[The Jizard]

Diff bush, the diff bush is always the problem!

[FGX 40T]

Turbotrana-When you altered the timing in the idle area you mentioned previously you said you were experiencing some other issues. What side effects are you experiencing?

[turbotrana]

Its a bit hard to explain.

At idle I think timing is controlled by closed loop spark control. However my idle spark advance jumps around heaps (From 0 degrees to 20+) and you can feel it at idle. Its not normal and I dont know whether it is part of the underlying stalling problem, or whether its more more noticable since I have been running 16:1 air fuel ratio at idle with an Innovate Lc-1 wideband (it allows me to run leaner closed loop fuel ratios for better fuel economy), or whether reducing timing in those map points are involved.

I would really need to do some A B A testing.

However I did play with a Spark idle adjustment(in drive/park.neutral) on HPtuners today and whilst I am still unsure what this adjustment does, when I set it to 10 degrees it seems to clip the timing to a maximum of 10 degrees and helps smooth the idle out.

I am really p-ssing in the dark here as having a good understanding of tuning is nothing if you cant understand the tuning program due to lack of info.

Nevertheless no stalling (yet), it will dip sometimes but wont go spastic.

Edited 18/10/12 01:02 PM by turbotrana

[turbotrana]

Today I changed the timing in the MBT and Borderline tables back to 40 degrees (from 30) in the 600/900Rpm 0.15/040 load points, just doing some testing.

She stalled going up the drive and display sh*tty fluctuating idle.

So I am pretty sure for some reason at idle at zero TPS the computer is jumping into the MBT/Borderline tables to find its spark when it shouldn't be.

It could be something as simple as a sensor that plays up but does not show an error code.

High spark ( 35+) will usually cause unstable idle. So by lowering the spark at those mentioned points it just brings it more stability.

But the MBT/Borderline tables seem to also determine idle spark. I degreased the rpm/load points mentioned above to 10 degrees and that gave me a -4 idle spark. Bring it to 40 and it gives me a much higher spark.

So 30 degrees gives around 10deg at idle which is the compromise I came to just to fudge the problem.

Finding the real stalling reason that my FG and a few others that I have heard of is the needle in the hay stack.