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The Great Wheel Bearing Farce.....


IBOO57

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  • Member For: 14y 10m 20d
  • Gender: Male

Try tyres, wheel balance, rims undamaged, control arm bushes upper and lower and probably alignment before condemning wheelbearings... Just a suggestion.. :innocent:

Yep,

We'll see what the shop says when they give it the once-over. Mine's also got a knocking noise at the left hand corner probably due to the strut letting itself be known.

Edited by Rockatansky
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  • Member For: 18y 1m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: QLD

I thinking it's mainly a heat issue, the camber & offset is just adding to the problem.

As said earlier mines done 126k and not a sign of any problem.

I run 245x35x19 front & 265x30x19 rear on 19x8.5 & 19x9.5 rims.

I have yet to do a track day so can't comment about that.

The AP Racing 4 pots & 330mm DBA5000 2 piece disks have never glowed.

When first bought car with standard brakes one big brake application was enough to make them glow. Not mention shudder badly which may also be another cause of bearing failure.

My brakes cop a hard time as love breaking late.

Another thing which may affect is with standard suspension when hard on breaks is there much camber or castor change?

I run Pedders Coil over so that could possibly be helping the bearings survive.

Also hard cornering, if outside wheel is loading up with positive camber it may also put extra strain on the bearings.

Suggest to add brake ducting and have suspension camber and castor checked for hard braking and cornering.

Try to find more ideas from v8 brute guys on how to make them last.

Hope participating in this thread does not curse my bearings.

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  • Member For: 19y 7m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Like most things in this life, weight is the enemy.. In cars, you have to accelerate it, force it to change direction, and eventually brake it, time and time again. Light is right, saving you wear and tear in almost every area. I'd bet that there are more than just one factor causing the bearings to crap out. When building rally gearboxes, you can get better specified bearings, often with more rollers and higher ratings, but its not unusual for a couple of these bearings to cost more than $600.. however, when they dont fail and cost you an event or an entire transmission, its money really well spent. I have a club motorsport Ford Capri 1971, with a 400hp Windsor fitted, amongst other things. It only weighs 1120kg and still has the full interior. If I gut it Im confident of getting it to around 850kg. It has the tiniest of front wheel bearings, just like old Escorts and Cortinas but has never cooked them. Ive had the brakes smoking heaps of times and all I do is give them a service and repack and careful adjustment. Lighter the better I reckon...

Mal K

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  • Member For: 17y 10m 23d

Agree with Cobramad.

At 1920kg, with Fuel and Driver,weight is the 'biggest killer' on the Track.

- Even with Race Seats, Glass Bonnet and R34 Rims!

I have all the Ducks Guts suspension and Bushes, but the weight....

I think the Ford Dealers would still be laughing at me if I attempted a Warranty claim though!

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  • Member For: 17y 3m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Hey all, what is a wheel bearing worth anyway? I have a quote for a RHF one for $107, doesn't say if it's genuine or a particular brand though.

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 17y 3m 7d
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  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Mofo!

I want these coretech ones...any part numbers?

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  • Member For: 19y 4m 19d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Kurrajong Heights NSW

I have fit after market hub's to my BA (wheel bearings) and got 5000km out of the left and 8000 out of the right and they were skf set went back to ford ones so far done 40,000 no issues did you replace the dust cap or check it for holes allot of people I've seen punch holes in the side without realizing water gets in and bye bye bearing but like it's been said parts warranty every manufacturer has its off day.

Neil

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