Subwoofers

[01txr]

Ok first of all what is the best 12" sub out of these

Clarion WG 3010

JBL GTO 1202D

Fusion Reactor

Here is the story.

My daughter wants to purchase a dual 12 Fusion Reactor set up for her R33

She has the clarion not fitted already but now wants to go with the fusion setup.

Im wanting to know first if the dual Fusion setup would better than the single Clarion.

And if it is I need to know if I should get the Clarion off her and fit it to my BA which has the

JBL currently in it or should I stick with the JBL.

JBL GTO1202D

sensitivity 93db

Power Handling 300Wrms- 1200Wpeak

Dual voice coil 2.0" (51.0mm)

1-4 ohm

Clarion WG 3010

Sensitivity 83db

Power Handling 300Wrms-900Wpeak

Single Voice Coil 2" Kapton

65oz (1.92kg) Strontium Ferrite Magnet

4 ohm

Edited 26/12/10 06:30 AM by 01txr

[TonyD]

I had the exact same JBL in my Honda Prelude, and I can tell you it hit very, very hard. My girlfriends family could hear me coming from almost 500m away. Need a very decent amp to run it though, and sound deaden the sh*t out of the parcel shelf.

[01txr]

Thanks for that TonyD

I had another JBL 12 in a TX3 years ago and it was orsm, out cranked brothers twin

Alpine's same car and also a mate who had 3 Kicker 12's. Was shocked on the mates kicker sub as it was a big dollar setup with multiply amps.

Had one neighbor say his cup of tea was vibrating in his highset house the other neighbour from otherside popped his head over the fence while in was sitting in car with earmuffs on tuning it.

Got out to see what he wanted and he tells me his neighbor has asked if he could get me to turn it down as his house is falling apart.

And yes could hear it coming from a very far distance also.

Iam disappointed at present with this new JBL but it may be the amp as it is the 6 channel JBL. Also not running a quality crossover As was in the tx3.

I ran a cheap tenvox 4x100 amp with 2 channels bridged for the sub in the tx3.

This amp even though was only a cheaper was pretty orsm, audio tech from Autobarn told me to hang on to it (in didn't) as apparently the last audio comp at the time, a car running these amps!Took out 3rd place.

I have bridged the JBL and it's a bit louder (still nothing on the tx3 Jbl) but it starts to trip the amp after half vol.

Maybe I need a capacitor and a decent crossover.

Also wanting to get a good Mono amp.

[TonyD]

Sounds like your amp was letting you down! When I had the single, ported boxed GTO1202D I was running a 350W RMS Alpine Monoblock and it absolutely belted. When I fried that amp (it was very, very old ...) I put a Jaycar two channel amp in and it wasn't very good at all ...

A decent sub means nothing without a decent amp! Something to consider =]

[HI PSI]

Plase do not overlook box sizes. Let's face it the R33 does not have much boot room to start with.

I designed, built and installed car audio system for 5 years and my personal experience with Fusion is that they were aptly named... In othr words they were pretty crap.... Amps frying themselves, the subs were loud, sound quality was sh*t and the box sizes were huge...

I am busy putting on my DJR 320 skirts today. After I finish I will run the subs through Bassbox for you. This will tell me which is better...

What amp is she planning on running- Model (With RMS power).

Does she want a sealed or ported box?

1 or 2 subs?

On a final note. Most people skimp on the other parts required to get good sound. Think of it in the same terms as your car..

Buy a GOOD power supply with good terminals

Replace the earth cable from the engine - chassis, chassis to neg battery terminal with the same size as the power supply.... Especially when running big power amplifiers...

[HI PSI]

I spent a bit of time playing with this today. I had absolutely no luck in finding any thiele small parameters for the Clarion sub... Which I kind of expected.... This is why we always used to stick to the better brands...

However I did run the JBL Gto and a Alpine SWR sub through for you so that you could get an idea of the differences between them. I was reasonably suprised by the Jbl. The Gto series really is their entry level and it actually performed ok... I decided to plot both ported and sealed on both graphs so that you may make a better decision on why type (Sealed/Ported) you would prefer..

The sealed enclosure requires greater power and will give a very accurate and ground shaking bass. You can cheat a little with the sealed box by stuffing the ox with Dacron. This can be obtained from any good material/craft store.. Keep stuffing it in until you can barely ge the sub woofer in the box. This will fool the sub into thinking that it is in a 10% larger box. You canuse this to either make the box 10% smaller than the sizes that I have specified of It will help to stop the woofer from being boomier...

The ported requires less power, but will be less accurate (Sloppier) but louder. More beneficial for the younger cround listening to Hip Hop or dance/trance where accurace is not really required. the trade off s good tight bass eg: Rock will suffer badly as the woofer has less control...This box design requires great accuracy in its design and construction. Maintaining the required volume is critical as it will affect the tuning of the port.

Both design have to be air tight. Glued screwed and siliconed on the inner edges.. Fail to do this and you will have the equivalent of 400rwkw in a ba engine... It WILL fail in a ball of smoke..

I could go on alot more. but I am ure that you get the idea...

Jbl Gto 1220d -

Blue line- Sealed 28.32 litres (1 Cu/ft)

Yellow - 28.32 litres ported

White - 56 litres ported

Alpine SWR-1222D

Yellow - Sealed 28.32 litres

White - Ported - 42 litres

Blue - POrted 28.32 litres

Let me know if you would like any more info..

[Kv!]

wow, top info HI PSI

nice work!

[01txr]

HI PSI

Wow, I understand engines but have never got into sound systems.

Thanks for your help.

Now Im using a Seductive Sounds Fiberglas encloseure and never have checked its volume.

I wanted something that looked factory and didn't rob boot space.

It is somewhere between 20-30 liters, (Should fill it one day to get actual volume)

I was doubting the Amp not for its brand as its JBL but because its a 6 Channel and I have never seen a multi channel amp

work as well as a dedicated amp eg mono designed for Subs.

Got to have another look at the amp but I do think of memory it was 50wrms off the 300wrms JBL Sub rating.

The amp when not bridged can power the sub to full volume without breaking a sweat, no distortion but not loud.

Now when I do bridge it I get to about half volume and it starts to trip its saftey, so I persume either the amp

is not storing the instant power required from the sub.

Now battery is boot mounted and I have used adequate cables so power supply should be fine, so it comes down to the JBL amp.

Will see what happens when I do get a decent Mono amp.

I have always used quality leads, and connections as being mech minded and having done quite a bit

of auto electrics, I know how important a good connection is and supply.

The daughter bought the Clarion as a deal from autobarn, its sub mentioned, with Clarion model 420 amp (Not at home again so cant give its full model number), Sound Pro Box and Fusion Cable kit.

Was very good priced at $275 concidering amp was $299 on its own.

Sub box is not going to be used as it looks crap as none of its angles match the R33 boot.

She has decided to get the Seductive Sounds Fibreglas box and going to get a 2nd to match later.

here are some pictures of my BA box

Get some pictures of it fitted tomorrow

[HI PSI]

It could be going into protection due to low voltage . Grab a multimeter and check the voltage when the amp is bridged... 300w rms should be ok to run it.. But the more power the better..

I am getting ready to fit a system to my T. I have been a few years without a good system so another is on the cards. The car (VN SS) got stolen. It had 18 g's of alpine gear in it...The new system will again have mostly Alpine gear. I already have the Jvc Dvd player, Pdx-1.1000 and a Pdx-4.150 amps. 5x7 R' series splits and 6 1/2 R's for the rear. All I have to get is a capacitor, wiring and 2 x SWR-T12's. That could be put on the back burner for a month or two as I plan a new FG F6 bottom end with strenghtening mods... My project car has also suffered as a result of these new plans..

I will be doing a pretty trick install which will utilise the premium subwoofer hole to get the bass into the cabin...

I will create a thread when I commence the install...

If you need to know anything feel free to ask...

[smicky]

Bassbox pro - lol...