What Is The Best Way To Remove Aftermarket 'Gt' Stripes

[Marksman X]

Hey guys, so as the title suggests I'm interested to know if anyone has removed a set of stripes from a T before?

I think I have finally found the car I want - but it is covered in 'GT' stripes.

I would keep the ones running along the lower doors - but remove the rest of them.

These aren't factory fitted ones either (from what I can tell) as the have 'turbocharged', etc written in them.

Can I just peel them off? Maybe use a heatgun? What would be best to remove the residue without removing the underlying paint?!

So excited to finally be getting into one of these bad boys!

This one is a manual and has 280rwkw - should be enough to tie me over for now.....

Back on topic: anyone know how to do this?

Cheers,

Steve.

[Worm]

Peel them off... that's all...

Is it a 6 speed manual? If its a 5 speed... Dont buy it...

[TerryF]

if not go to a panel beater or sticker shop haha

[01txr]

What worm said.

Don't buy if it's 5 speed.

Mine was making 275rw then I added x-force system and it started to whine like a v8 supercar box.

Cost me $5000 for a blueprinted t56.

T56 are cheaper now to pick up but even still better toget factory t56 as reverse lick out works correctly through ecu and ecu is set for 6sp not 5sp.

I have my reverse lick out wired to brake switch so to slot reverse brake gas to be depressed.

Just can't set any perimeters in tune for 6th gear.

Also if it's series 1 BA don't push it any harder as rods wil break.

On stripes, heat gun is ok just make sure don't over heat paint.

If you can just peel them I have found olive oil to get rid of glue residue.

Also pending glue a good polish will work as well.

Good luck on the t. They are orsm only bettered by the new GT.

[Rusty XR6T]

easiest way is to just start to peel them off, anything left behind (glue residue) put bug and tar remover on it, leave for a few minutes then rub off with a plastic tool or the end of a plastic ruler but have to be very gentle and dont use any steel tools like screw drivers! and wash any residue off

if there is still stuff left behind repeat the bug and tar remover until it all comes off.

Make sure the areas around the sticker are perfectly clean before you start otherwise you might scratch your paint

[Marksman X]

It's a 5 speed, however it's cheap - under 13k cheap. (and local-ish)

Is the 5 spd the same/similar T5 as out of the older Fords? If it is, then I have spares

Stripes need to go though! (sounds pretty easy - thanks guys.)

However it has XR8 bonnet, CAPA flash box (thingy!), exhaust, intercooler, etc. As well as 19" wheels, & FPV gauge pod. I think it's a reasonable buy.

I was going to buy XRT767 - but it's BTR has just thrown in the towel.

[ms700]

Leave the car sitting in the sun will make it a lot easier too.

[Worm]

It's a 5 speed, however it's cheap - under 13k cheap. (and local-ish)

Is the 5 spd the same/similar T5 as out of the older Fords? If it is, then I have spares

Stripes need to go though! (sounds pretty easy - thanks guys.)

However it has XR8 bonnet, CAPA flash box (thingy!), exhaust, intercooler, etc. As well as 19" wheels, & FPV gauge pod. I think it's a reasonable buy.

I was going to buy XRT767 - but it's BTR has just thrown in the towel.

Buy XRT 767... And fix the auto... It has MUCH more potential...

5 speeds are sh*t. If it has 280rwkw, that is already too much for the box to handle... Not to mention the clutch...

$13k may be cheap... But it can also be a waste if $$$... Think about WHY it's $13k...

[Buf-Phoon]

Eucalyptus oil is good for removing sticky residue. Just make sure you clean it all off after

[01txr]

Sorry that's what I ment eucalyptus oil not olive.

Olive may work but be a but messy.

The t5 is actually a t5z and is different then the earlier boxes.

For one it uses a csc not throwout bearing on a clutch fork.

Also the earlier boxes are cable clutch not hydraulic.

If you do buy it, make sure you can source the t5z or have money readyvfor a t56.

Bolts straight in as long as you use the t56 crossmember.

Clutch is the same etc.

Have seen the t56 go for as little as 2k.

Can't use the v8 t56 either.

All that in mind your spend is going to be $15k to $20 pending price you pay for t56.

Should be able to buy a bf 6sp man for that.

It's not hard to get these cars to 280rwkw and I would suggest if that's what you want look for stock one that has not been flogged and start the mods the way you want to.

If it's been tuned for a while it probably has the original capa flash box.

These are obsolete and can't be tuned anymore so you could be stuck with the tune it has ir you will be up for a new tuner which is going to set you back more money anywhere from $500-$2000 pending tune box and tuner, even more if want other stuff added like ic, exhaust, wastegate mod etc.

Another thing is to watchout for the BA is a lot coped oil starvation due to turbo oil feed filters not being serviced.

This I also found out the hard way.

Stupid me went with my BA just because itwas making good power over a offer on ford springwood ex manager car black bf f6 6sp t56 full option 5k on clock for $50k neat.

The BA was $29.

Regret it badly now as every thing that had been done has been turfed and better components replaced.

So this BA has cost me more than the f6 and even though it looks like a bf f6 it isn't.

Hope I help you not to make same mistakes.

That power is entrapping. Be smart buy a better foundation.