Manual Or Auto?

[bunna]

Having driven both the manual and the auto in several different Miami powered units I'd be leaning heavily towards the manual - combined with the bulge it just makes you grin harder.

As for fatter rubber - as I've pointed out before wider tyres failed durability so weren't possible this time around. Would've been nice but you have to sell a car to the masses for all conditions.

As for the motoring mags - comments like "slammed it to the floor" don't give me much confidence in their launch "technique". Remember the crap that went on when the G6E was faster than the F6?

[IBOO57]

How can every HSV made come with staggered rims that must meet Durability but FPV finds it so difficult?

To come last in performance car of the year is pretty sad considering the praise placed on the motor.

[01txr]

It's not the rims that don't meet durability, it's the driveline smashing traction the bigger rubber gives.

Even at it's very restricted tune it's power and torque is not very friendly and the fact

All that torque is available so low does not help.

Maybe Ford should bring out a light weight version running a Hollinger gearbox a a V8 supercar spec 9", gear boost up to 15-20psi.

Ye ha GTHO p3 equivalent.

Fast 4 Door production car in the world, not bad for a Taxi based family shopping cart.

And last is t so bad in that company of cars & concisering no gm/gmh product made it into it shows that the GT is amonst the best.

Not to mention didn't see a F6 or XR6T there either.

The F6 is at it's best, the GT has alot more to offer once a stronger driveline is available.

[bunna]

You're actually both wrong

HSVs wouldn't pass Ford's durability testing (its a miracle anything does actually). I've heard a few people comment on "selective" testing undertaken by certain companies. No evidence of course - just scuttlebut.

And the tyres themselves were the cause of the durability fail, not their effect on the drivetrain.

[01txr]

Bunna

Agree Ford do set a high bar for durability and agree hsv would not pass a ford

Durability test, hell there petrol flaps fall when your sneeze on them.

And yes ford could push more out safely but it's there choice to be extra safe with there product.

Also as I said earlier big premium quality rubber and a retune will extract a lot more of it's potential.

At it's tune only potential of low 400rwkw the auto is not the safest option.

Also have the cv's been upgraded, as we all know these will not handle excess of 400rwkw

With grippy tyres on the strip?

[Arkayne]

What do you mean by "CV's" not handling in excess of 400rwkw?

By the way, thanks for the reply guys.

Juat to bring up some old replies:

I actually LOVE the rims; it shows off those nice brembo brakes dramatically by having thinner spokes.

I went manual based on the fact that it's a V8, and that I had an Auto in my xr6t. Thing is, when I sold my XR6T, I wanted the FG so bad.. but I thought, why "downgrade"? I already did all the modifications to my 6T, that I would have to do all over again on the F6, plus more. Also, I would have gone auto for the F6, being turbo. So again, defeats the purpose of buying a new car to get the exact same "specs" in terms of driving feel. The GT was the only alternative; I love the look, I love the stripes.

Though, why is everyone concerned about the drivetrain? And are they really upgrading this for the MKII series? For what reason?

Regarding the tyres, 100% agree; 245's on the 19's will shred so quickly; my 6T with 330rwkw had problems with 245's too.. I quoted up some 265's to switch them at the dealership, they would charge me $500 per tyre (youch), or $400 each if I traded in my current tyres before leaving the dealership (which isn't an issue, since I won't get the car till February). Can someone recommend some nice tyres to get? Since the rims are 19x8's, I'm assuming the safest width-wise will be 265's?

And finally, I wouldn't be surprised if the F6 would beat the GT off the line, but after about 100km/h, I'd assume the GT would pull away if both launched in a perfect world. To be honest though, there's not many people I would race with this sort of car - this is why I justified the manual; it'll be a fun car to drive that'll go dramatically fast while sounding awesome, have the looks and feel incredible. I made up my mind and thought I'll use this car mostly as a weekend driver, and on the occasional week night for fun (maybe a bit of street dragging, but you didn't hear that from me!).. I've bought a second car (crappy, but good enough) to drive to and from work so the GT can stay at home in the nice shade

[Bomber]

Nailed it mate - well written. So many get caught up on rwkw's without actually considering what someone is wanting in a total package. I love aspects of my T but it lacks the soundtrack. When I bought it was down to two - the other being a manual VE SS. I tested them back to back and felt the auto XRT was a better fit - this time. However, even after mods, it still doesn't inspire me. Part of it is I'm trying to connect with owning a Ford again and the other is I miss the V8. I therefore totally get where you're coming from and if I bought a V8 'anything' it would be manual.

Edited 22/01/11 12:36 PM by Dagabond
Quote removed....

[Arkayne]

Bomber, I think you made the right choice. Though a fiery V8 grunt sounds awesome, there's nothing like the acceleration and torque of the XR6T, whether manual or auto. Have an open Cold Air Induction put in, another 3-4psi boost running, and you'll forget all about that V8 noise from the SS when you hear your turbo spooling and shouting as it beats anything Expensive Daewoo has on the road!

Thanks for the kind words, though.

On another note, since the dealership I'm buying it from is 1200km away, I'm thinking of flying up and driving it back. How would people recommend driving it to work it in? Should I do the trip, or should I simply get it shipped here? It would be an awesome ride, but I want to make sure I work in the engine right - stop and goes (adjusting speed), or set cruise control on and drive it like that?

Edited 23/01/11 04:28 AM by Arkayne

[01txr]

Arkayne

With the turbo's anything making over 400rwkw with a good set of MT's on the strip will shorten the cv's life dramatically. Even less RWKW has smashed them.

2 choices for fix I know are the Albins cheaper and billets over 3x dearer.

Anyway hope ford have beefed the GT ones up.

A good tyre I use is Toyo Proxy 4's.

When my T was making 300rwkw I bought a set of Koya Raceteh 19x9.5r with nangkang 265x30x19 fitted as package. the nangkangs where fantasic, if you wanted to win a burnout comp.

My T would fry them through 1-3rd.

The Toyo Proxy 4's I replaced them with have been fantastic with only wheel spin 1st occassionly little in 2nd pending road surface.

However since I upgraded to a TO4z setup the Toyo's are struggling at 12psi and useless at 17psi.

I buy my proxy 4's off a tyre dealer on eBay down Vic I think he was, costs me last time $720 pair delivered to QLD.

Tyrepower wanted $560 a tyre.

I have bought 2 sets off the guy, first set last 8000k with a inner wall blow out caused by Pedders setting to much camber and loading inner wall to much and small pot hole.

Second set are still on car done 10 000k few drag

Meets, not much left as still to much camber, with inner worn approx 60% more then outer.

Once I find a shop that can dial in the suspension better, I get a lot more out of them, thinking like 20 000k plus.

Tyrepower quoted me 25 000k from them.

For the price I don't know if you will find better, if anyone can let me know as well as need better for my new power levels once my new engine goes in.

[BojFPV]

My typhoon was auto and to be honest I never wanted an auto but I got it coz it was neat n cheap but now id never go back to manual in a F6 but the GT on the other hand has to be manual.....put an exhaust n it will feel like your driving a v8 supercar