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Manual Or Auto?


Arkayne

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Yes it's clunky, there's driveline shunt at low speeds, the clutch is heavy......but every time you go up or down through the gears at pace, the experience puts a smile on my face that no auto could.

Exactly. And the key words here is "at pace". Drive these manuals slow and grandpa-ish and you will hate it. They only smoothen up when you are driving like you mean it.

If you plan on driving this everyday, get the auto. If this is your fun weekend car, get the manual.

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go back to Etheridge Ford and specifically ask for John, tell him Russell and Jamie who bought the white XR5 recommended him, I guarantee he will look after you, best salesman I have ever experienced.

And if John doesnt cut it, ask for Adrian, hes the sales manager and a top bloke, but dont talk to anyone else there, the rest are f*wits

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  • Member For: 18y 25d
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Have heard the white is best seller or best price holder.

Not 100% on which but just something I heard so maybe why they won't budge.

As for manuals in traffic how crap, I own a t56 with twin plate CI clutch and over 400rwkw, it was fine in traffic unless it actually stopped dead, you could idle it in 1st as low as 5k with clutch full engaged. Even up slight inclines as it's auto stall would raise it's revs when needed.

Also I have found this CI twin to be lighter than the exede single it replaced.

Have been told a twin does not need the presure a single does.

You don't have to drive manuals hard for them to be drivable, not unless it's a gutless high revving power plant that it's torque and hp does nothing till it's in the high rpm range.

The GT has huge low down torque and you would only be idling around at speed limits. Any throttle and your exceeded speed limit before you select 3rd.

Worse thing will be trying to keep it at 60k in 5th or top.

That's what pisses me, car is idling nicely in top being very efficient and then some idiot decides to be very safe by doing 50k in the 60k zone and I have to shift down.

Same as crap on highways, set your cruise and you always have to keep resetting it because of those same idiots, even worst as they sit in right lane holding everyone up.

GT = Grand Tourer

Drivers car for clocking up k after k of all types of road especially challenging corners, quick shifting and clutching to get the best out of the driving experience.

Gearing down to help slow under heavy braking etc eta

All I can say is you will regret not getting a manual more than not getting a auto.

End of all is why buy a GT if you are not going to drive it.

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  • Member For: 18y 3m 16d
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The manual is a man's gearbox, I don't know why you guys are saying its 'clunky?' I've had numerous WRX's and while they are regarded as having quite good shift quality, I would say its no better than the FPV stuff. Grab it by the scruff of the neck and stick the lever where it needs to go. I don't really like to drive with the tips of my fingers, so I guess that's why I like it. The clutch is light and easy, at no point have I ever thought it to be heavy. Go for a run and build some muscle.

The driveline is clunky, if you get it right, it will pigroot like a bastard. There does seem to be quite a lot of lash in the whole shebang, I don't know why this is the case.

Imagine if we were driving around with riflebolt gearbox's, sure the shift would be great, but they would be made of glass and every second person would be doing synchro's and stripping piddly teeth off the bloody thing. Hardly a scenario that Ford would want. At the end of the day you can drive it fast, you can dial up a heap of rev's and step off the clutch without breaking things, and I reckon that's pretty impressive for a 300kw+ family sedan/ute.

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the 6060 isnt worse than the T56 is it? honestly I quite liked the BF T56 on my Phoon..........the manual V8 would be better, not losing boost between gears like a tweaked turbo I would think.

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The FG clutch and gearbox is definitely different than the BA/BF gearbox.. And a very noticeable difference at that.

@Rusty XR6T - Thanks mate, will definitely give them a call tomorrow and see what I can do.. I think I actually spoke to Adrian? I don't remember what his name was, but Adrian rings a bell.. Anyway, I'll see what I can do for the price, it seems Manual is the way to go..

Other then that, got a quote for a late Feb 2011 build, deliverable in March:

- White with GT Black Stripes

- Manual

- Reverse Camera

- Cloth Interior

- FPV Floor Mats

- Dash Mat

- 35% Window Tint

- Cost for Flight Up and Accommodation for 1 Night

$80,900 driveaway

For an extra $1k, I could get a 2011 build, minus the leather, but had dash mat, window tint, fpv floor mats all included.

Should I wait, or go for the 2010 build and see if they budge on price??

Edited by RHR
No need to quote above post. USE FAST REPLY
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If you get the 2011 it will sound as if its a newer car, better when resell.

What would you buy a 2010 or 2011

As that's first thing people look at, then what actual date, milage options etc.

Even though the 2010 is a Dec car the Jan 2011 is a year newer.

What years your car?

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But it will always be like that, you can save nearly 10k buying a demo with under 5k on it. Pretty much brand new.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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It'll be an every-day drive car.. to and from work, and weekend drive as well.

Well, I made up my mind and went for the Manual, though, I'm ordering it from factory after thinking about what some of you stated; the 2011 is a "year newer" then a 2010, regardless of what month. So, with that note, I ended up getting a great deal (I think?).

The one I posted on the previous page was $80,990 on road; white in colour, manual, reverse camera, and cloth trim.

I got this for $76k driveaway - it'll be a late January 2011 build, and I'll take delivery of it early February; I'm very much excited!

I think I made the right choice - has anyone seen a white GT 335 on the road yet? I wouldn't mind seeing some photos of it parked or in-traffic to see how it stands out.. :)

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