Track Setup Ba Xr8 Ute

[power_slide]

  On 05/12/2010 at 12:16 PM, Smoke them tyres said:

No offence, but are you serious in letting it scrub like that?

Mate it only scrubs with the 20" rims on the circuit rims are 18x8 and dont scrub

I would not drive the car while it was scrubbing, dont know if you have this image in your head of me doing thousands of k's scrubbing on every corner but that is not the case. I traveled from my factory 6ks straight to the shop that sold the wheel spacers and put them straight on

[power_slide]

they tyre that popped was on a 18x8 also

[senna_T]

The only problem with basing your set-up on tat of a Brute Ute is that the utes run proper weld in cages that are very comprehensive - this in turn increasing the rigidity of the body and chassis - allowing the suspension to work more effectively.

[Guest XR09]

If you use a be-ute setting on these things. I would be taking it to the track and back on a trailer.

Don't matter how good you are or how slow you go, the first sprinkling of rain and you will be spending more time facing the wrong way than anything else. Any bump, ridge or camber in the road and you will be dancing with the wheel. Lowering them right down is the worst thing you can do as well. Try and keep the ride hight around 340mm. Specially with that sort of spring rate.

I don't even think my coilovers are set that high. On Mnt cotten hill climb I have to back my dampers off a fair way or it will not hold any sort of corner speed. @ QR I can firm it up a lot more. A softer rear will also help put the power down and move the weight in corners to the front outside. Which will help with mid corner speed. Having it too stiff and low and it will just lift the inside front wheel all the time.

Neg toe on the front is great for turn in, but it does not help it hold the corner speed. And expect about 6,000k's with easy road driving out of your tires.

[Smoke them tyres]

If "proper" handling is what is required........

only adequate suspension travel can give you the desired compliance, then the std XR ride height is as low as I would go.

The lower the ride height, the greater the distance between the of g and the roll centre, the greater the roll force.

[Smoke them tyres]

Running too strong a spring rate to stop it bottoming because it has also been setup too low in ride height is self defeating IMO.

Edited 06/12/10 08:14 AM by Smoke them tyres

[Guest XR09]

Awwww that's what I was trying to say. Meant to say that my coilovers are not that tightly sprung. Well I don't think. lol

[Gee]

  On 06/12/2010 at 6:23 AM, senna_T said:

The only problem with basing your set-up on tat of a Brute Ute is that the utes run proper weld in cages that are very comprehensive - this in turn increasing the rigidity of the body and chassis - allowing the suspension to work more effectively.

It's only a phone call away to get some advise. These people professional and know the utes inside and out. If you pay them they will setup yous ute better than you could ever imagine.

[power_slide]

They won't tell you all the secrets...

I have heard in the brutes they push the engine back about a inch to transfer some weight back

[senna_T]

  On 06/12/2010 at 9:41 AM, Gee said:

It's only a phone call away to get some advise. These people professional and know the utes inside and out. If you pay them they will setup yous ute better than you could ever imagine.

At the risk of sounding arrogant...

<<<That picture is my workshop, I manage it, we set-up No 42 - Chris Pither's race ute, the suspension component repairs are done in my workshop for both of the Ice Break Racing Utes when they are in Sydney - yes they are commodores now, but we also previously set-up Layton Crambrook's Mother Energy racing BA ute.

Please trust me when I say that setting up a street car like a dedicated race car is optimistic at best

Cheers

Pat