Xr6T Tappet Noise

[xr6twin]

Hey guys,

Iv just finished rebuilding the engine in my twin turbo'd XR6 Ute to handle power levels of up to 500RWKW, and have noticed a much higher level of tappet noise coming from the head at idle.

The engine started its life as an N/A BA xr6 Grey top, with 145000Kms on the clock. I have since removed the engine and strengthened the bottom end as well as a new set of valves (all the valve seats re-cut) valve springs and a custom intake plenum. + everything else that goes with a typical engine rebuild

I noticed the increase in tappet noise only after I began to use Castrol edge 10W60 oil. (recommended to me by a local Brake Pro dealer for use in worked XR6T engines)

I ran the engine for its first 30mins on Gulf Western 10W30 oil just as a run in to get the small metal shavings off the new rings and the freshly honed block. By run in, I mean it was only a case of starting the engine and letting it sit idle for half hr. Once I had run it for 30mins I dumped the 10W30 out and replaced it with the very expensive Edge 10W60, and ever since have noticed a large increase in tappet noise only at idle, although I never noticed the tappet noise while running on the Gulf Western 10W30.

If I rev the engine up to any where above say 1250RPM the noise stops completely.

The ECU has still not been dyno tuned so the car has never been driven from where it was rebuilt nor has it seen any form of boost, so im only going off what im hearing while the car is sitting stationary .

I have heard myths that aftermarket oil filters can cause a restriction to oil flow at idle in cross flow ford 6's, where as genuine filters flow alot easier but dont seem to filter as well and need to be changed at lower K's than the alternate aftermarket filters.

Has any one else experienced these symptoms on their FORD 6, and been able to fix it with something as simple as a filter or lighter grade oil??

iv had the tappet cover off twice since the rebuild trying to find any obvious signs of the noise, as so far have come up with sweet F.A..... :-)

any feedback with be fantastic!

cheers,

Tim

[Banned1]

sure its not cam chain rattle ?

[xr6twin]

Yeh, its got a new cam chain in it, the chain has a hydraulic tentioner on it as well, but yeh the tentioner could also be missing oil pressure to keep the chain taught, I think im just gunna try a lighter grade oil, try put that possibly to the test

Edited 30/10/10 09:06 AM by RHR
No need to quote above post. USE FAST REPLY

[Pazzo]

I just switched over to nulon 10w/40 cause reading members post on it, most said engine will be quiet on it. so went out the other day got oil and new filter, and must say made a huge difference. no harm trying .

[bjc]

Whne I had my AU I tried various types of oils and found for that engine the penrite 15-40 was the best for me. I used a 5-50 castrol at the time and low rpm and idle always had the knock up top so plus this was a full synthetic oil whereas the penrite was either a semi syn or straight mineral.

The BA series are good with 10-40 (I use royal purple) that I have found with no knock in the head although I do live in a hot climate up north so cold starting is not cold as such but used it in Brisbane also and it was good with no knock!

I wouldn't go to a 10w-60 prob just 10w-40 unless its chewing oil?

Try a couple and see whats best would be my opinion.

[PHANTMXR6]

Try a 15W40 oil. That's what Ford recommend.

Did you really let it idle for 30 minutes after it was rebuilt? If that's the case, good luck further down the track. I reckon it will probably use lots of oil due to glazing of the bores.

If running in a new engine, you really need to have it loaded up to get the long term benifits. Particularly if it's going to be making big power.

When you get it going again, I'd suggest giving it some real load to try and get those rings bedded in properly.