Rust Proofing (Bf Ii)

[Spoony]

First post so Hey.

Recently picked up a BF II XR6T late 07 (so with 18's, dual climate control goodness and so call 'premium' sound) etc for $15k. (Damn I'd hate to be buying a coon new, depreciate much!!)

There are a few lil niggling issues (seems fairly common with coons) with the car but might cover that later/elsewhere.

Anyways a mate who works in car yards immediately started going over it last night....... I got stuss. He's like well they can rust out here, here, oh and here etc.

I was like WTF, it's 3 years old no such thing, he chuckled.

I guess it's just Aussie made crap though, I've always owned Jap, other car is 16yr old U13 Bluebird, it had two dust pans of mud in the front guards, but zero rust, must have been sitting soaking wet for years but no issue.

Anyways as I plan to keep this car for a while I figured perhaps look at doing a few small preventative measures?

Mate said they rust in the engine bay around the battery, top of the strut tower areas and and in the seams along the chassis rails. + Also in the boot around the struts etc. Much of it seems to be a design flaw and poor workmanship. Ie the seams point up ways to collect water/dirt, and the paint coverage on the these areas is pathetic.

He suggested just getting some clear paint in a tin and brushing it into these areas to give better coverage and seal it up. Does this sound suitable? Obvoiusly this wouldn't be really noticable given its clear.

I also thought of just spraying lanolin in/on the areas ever 6 months to a year.

I understand there is 5 year warranty on the body but would rather not have the hassle of fixing such issues and more than not it re occurs.

[Spoony]

'rust' a bit of a hush topic on here perhaps?

[our06t]

think your mate was winding you up , have been a few that have had the little bit of rust under the struts in the boot area that's about all Ive heard of in the 5yrs I have been playing with them .

But your thread is pretty out there bagging your own car and the very unrealistic price that you payed for the car so most people probably think your just sh*t stirring and don't actually own the car your talking about.

If you did pay 15k for it I think you will have more than a few issue's with the car because you can barely find a good BA for that price

[Spoony]

I do see your point, but my mate does see a bucket load of these things along with eleventy other types of cars. He bascially does the repair work needed to get vehicles ready for sale, even told me how he 'fixes' them up for sale, he's not BS'ing.

I managed to find threads about boot rust, have a look up under the top corners of the boot (inside) at the seam, mines late 07 and already has some very minor surface rust in there.

Australian Ford Forums - Boot leak on BA

Check out the rust in my 07 BF -- Ya might wanna check yours - Ford Australia Forums

I was just baging out this issue, quite poor in this day and age for it to be any sort of problem, but Territory's are know for it also in the tail gate, he recons without fail everyone will have rust.

It would appear Ford's skimping on sealing seems/joins and unseen panels as a cost saving measure perhaps?

As for the price, it's what I paid. They guy wanted the residual on his lease paid. Sure it has 120,000kms (all highway, it's life was Towoomba to Brisbane and back), but is full logbook serviced at Toowoomba Fraud dealer so figured this should be nothing one one of these (have had many japers done 300,000kms, including turbo). I'd imagine 400,000kms well maintained should be achievable with one of these?

The market for most things at the moment is very limp, trust me I'm trying to sell a late model sportsbike. What people are listing/asking and what people will actually get are two different things. The cheapest other one I found at the time was near on $5k more (asking) with similar/more KM's and in no better condition (mine is very clean, no at single door ding or anything).

But more on topic I'm firstly happy to bring this to peoples attention, have a close inspect and see, but also did want to know about peoples suggestions/experience in minimising these issues as per my original post.

I could just leave everything and then use the 5 year body warranty but as with most body repairs their best prevented.

Cheers.

[our06t]

fair enough mate

yes the seams are bad in some areas remove the rubbers that run along the side of the roof you will find a nice seam gap down the side of the windscreen too, Myself I wd40 all seams etc I can get too every few months.

remove rubbers and wd under them etc.

Edited 28/10/10 12:52 AM by our06t

[Spoony]

He pulled these rubbers also when he noticed the Windscreen Obriens sticker. He said they are hopeless and often cut the paint when getting the screen out which end later in much rusty pain. Looks ok in there at the moment.

Yeah I was thinking of pulling all the rubbers and using lanotec/lanolin in everywhere, that stuff doesn't dry out and go away like WD40 and the like. Work mint on my Ski in salt water so probably all that is needed. Maybe a redo every 6months/year on more exposed areas.

I'm more worried about the areas one can't see and aren't yet known as common issues. (Heard mention in behind the rear bumper there is a trouble spot somewhere)

I guess if one gets a new car every 5 years from new who cares (well does hurt resale) but I plan on keeping this one at least another 5-7 or more.

Edited 28/10/10 09:54 AM by RHR
No need to quote above post. USE FAST REPLY

[seduced]

I wouldnt worry. Just keep on the rust in the boot (everyone has this, I spray wd40 every month or two, seems to keep it in check) and replace your suspension. It will be shot after driving toowoomba to brisbane all the time.

If you are only keeping it 5 years or so, I doubt rust will be a problem. Save your money for suspension bushes, gearbox services, aftermarket turbo oil feed line, and oil changes every 7,500km. You'll be right.

Oh, and put dynamat underneath the parcel shelf, about 50% coverage is enough. Your premium sound will actually come to life and be somewhat enjoyable.

[Spoony]

suspension doesn't seem too bad, there is a bit of a knock I think front right (or maybe just RHS in general) over certain bumps but its quite random and not super common.

Other than that I took it up the hills on the weekend and seems faily planted and settled, I didn't mind it for such a big tank of a car.

I should read up on what the commonly worn/replaced bushes are and look at doing this maybe later in the year though.

What suprised me is standard 15,000 intervals have been the service schedule, its due now, and the oil is amazingly clean (still golden even) after 15k. I asked the owner and he only and he said no, last time was at 105,000 as per the book. Is 7500 really necessary? I guess it depends how hard it is pushed, mods, and also type of driving (city vs country) + how quicly the oil is deterioriating?

Funny you mention the 'premium' sound. I thought it sounded very limp, but didn't notice till after purchase the sub was missing. The owner (older guy) said he always thought it was lacking but didn't know. Looking at the bolt holes that are 100% clean and full paint coverage so I'd say it was missed at manufacture. It's actually a 06/06/07 so first of the BFII 'upgrades', with prem/climate/18's etc so I guess maybe it was friday and they guy wanted to go home.

The amp's in there and works, its running 10' in the boot.

I was thinking of trying to fit a 10' in the 8' hole spacing it up and then dynamating/or similar the parcel shelf so I have full boot space & access

[seduced]

There have been many turbo failures due to the 15k servicing and poorly designed stock turbo oil filter and feed line. Everything may look fine, but you could be mere moments away from a $5k trubo replacement. Best to have these things check/replaced and prevented with 7,500 oil changes and an ETM oil feed line and filter.

Good oil will be almost clear on the dipstick, dirty oil wil appear golden/dark brown. The true test is when you empty the sump. What looked golden on the stick is now jet black pouring out your sump.

As yours is starting to get some Km's on it, the little things like regular oil changes will save you big $$ down the track.

Edited 28/10/10 02:05 AM by seduced

[Spoony]

Cheers for the heads up, that oil line feed sounds like the biggest worry. WTF putting a filter in the block fitting for, I've never seen this in the many turbo cars I've owned over the years!

As the filter is in the fitting on the block I guess as per Australian Ford Forums - Braided Lines & Filter Fitting Tutorial, Turbo 6 you could remove the filter and refit. In that thread they put an after market line on but really the line/hose diameter would be ample not to cause an issue vs the filter once it's been removed?

Yes my experience, especially with turbo cars is they oil goes quite dark fairly quickly. This is what suprised me when I checked it, it was almost like looking at freshly changed oil. And yep I have no doubts dump it into a pan it it will look far from like new oil.

hmmm maybe the oil isn't getting any oil and that's why it's clean. haha.