Jump to content

What Bolt To Use For Diff?


howitzer85

Recommended Posts

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 8m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: The marsh...

I havent started getting the broken part of my bolt out yet, but I plan on trying to drill and use an easyout, although I did drop the cradle.

So what do you guys recommend, should I keep my super stiff bush at the back and replace the 2 front ones to the same spec or should I replace all 3 with the comfort series?

like shmitt said, if anyone has some pointers on getting the broken bolt out I'm all ears...(or eyes, lol)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 27
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 10m 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

I would do the following:

-go get yourself a small and a correct size pair of chrome vanadium drills. The first one is for the pilot hole in the bolt, and the second is to correct size the hole. Good location is important.

-centre punch the remaining bolt. This will do 2 things.......locate the pilot drill and also unload any remaining tension/load/friction between the bolt and the alloy thread of the housing. Alloy housings tend to "bite" on the steel threads. Some Penetrene may also help.

-most bolts are not hard on the inside and this grade of drill (the best), will give you the best chance of doing it without damaging the housing thread. The application of some moderate pressure with a slow speed is preferable to a high speed and overheating the end of the bit.

-Don't use any Ezy Out. They are usually brittle and snap.....then you're really stuffed. The best ones to get are ones that are splined like a car axle along their entire length that have a matching "nut" that you put your spanner or socket on. They have some flex and give, rather than snap. Hammer it in and go to work. Good tool shops should have this better style unit. They're not dear.....

post-13888-12872357008_thumb.jpg

-that sucker should then come right out.

I would have all 3 mount bushes of the same durometer (hardness). ....ie I think the rear bush is ok to stay provided the other 2 are changed to the same bush material. This way, all 3 bolts are carrying their share of the load and have any excessive bending loads minimised. The fact that the bolt has snapped with just the rear bush upgraded does not surprise me. See Pat's (senna_T) and my post.

I would also re-fit a std bolt. Stronger grade bolts will be stronger in tension, but more brittle in bend. They would also transfer more load to the housing of which it may not be able to withstand.

Edited by Smoke them tyres
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mmmmm......BOOST
  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: central coast

I've had the nolathane bush put in, and I am about to swap it for a superpro comfort but I noticed they have left the little metal hat off the back of the diff bush that's on the BF's just need to know if I should find one before I fit the superpro or is it not needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mmmmm......BOOST
  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: central coast

to be honest I don't know what it's called big ring/hat must be around 80-90mm in size fits over the back of the bush then the bolt goes through it . :dontknow:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Mmmmm......BOOST
  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: central coast

maybe, bigger than any washer I've seen on a car, from looking at workshop manuals I have the ba didn't have one only the BF , it's more like a hat it's not just a flat washer .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 10m 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane

I would say that it is only there to provide some extra "mass" for some sort of drive train dampening at a specific frequency range. My BFII doesn't have it fitted and the drive train is as quiet as. Besides, it provides easier inspection of the dreaded bush without it fitted.

I don't think it really does much, so long as the bolt is not bottoming on the housing threads with it not fitted.....ie there is actually a proper torque on the bolt and the "joint" is tight.

If all is ok with that, I wouldn't bother re-fitting it. Consider it weight reduction.

Edited by Smoke them tyres
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



×
  • Create New...
'