Brembo Rotors Replacement

[smicky]

nelson... hold on a sec bud, of course if you are heading down the path of tracking the car, one would assume more than just a 20kg or so weight saving on rotors and callipers would be considered. In such case go and get some REAL GEAR TO PULL THE CAR UP!

Rotors and pads are 'just a minor' starting point sir.

Just running the 5000's only would not really be of that great advantage v's $$$ for someone that tracks on a odd bored day, or to get away from the missus.

having said that, im not too sure if you are on track with the 5000 series, as there is NO 5000 rear rotor as you have mentioned "all 4 corners".

Paint (gold) was in reference to the 4000's, and as far as I know the 5000's (XS) are a gold hat also, hence the "gldxs" part number.

You will find the "blksl/r" are black - this is the hat which comes in the kit for the 'slotted only' rotors.

anyways... like I said "IMO" (In My Opinion)... so enough from me...

F6RD: Just get yourself the 4000XS's the replacement rotor for the 5000's is just as exe as the whole 4000's...

5000's either SL/R or XS will give you a minor weight saving, they will also give a minor advantage of the 4000's in a heat and expansion ability where serious braking like that of being on a track may find a small advantage. Other wise....

So unless you have bottomless pockets... 4000XS's FTW.

XS v SL - long in short you have the best of both worlds with XS - most people are concerned about drilled cracking then finding half the rotor attached to the hub, and the other half flying out the back of the car.

Im yet to have found ANY CRACKS WHAT SO EVER on my XS's, and they have a bit of work to do when im behind the wheel.

The advantage of having the drills are not only for heat reduction, but also where the slots wear done, the drilled holes will assist in the gases being removed also. Therefore a worn XS v SL - XS will still out perform a worn SL.

"just for show".... Not exactly... Quite simple really.

Each time you wash the car (or at least once a week) just have a quick look and check the holes, any cracks get it checked, if not - your all good).

Take a look at a few of the following:

http://www.dba.com.au/node/2

http://www.dba.com.au/node/3

http://www.dba.com.au/node/5556

http://www.dba.com.au/node/5551

http://www.dba.com.au/node/5544

http://www.dba.com.au/node/5557

Edited 12/09/10 08:36 AM by smicky

[F6RD]

Cheers for everyones point of view

Probably gonna go the 5000 cross drilled and slotted with a black hat, and you can choose what colour hat you want. be it red black blue or gold.

[cobramad]

FWIW, Ive had limited success with the Gold 4000 series on customers cars, as many have said, more show than go and the cracking rate when used hard is very high. On the other hand, the Slotted Longlife rotors do not exhibit the cracking that is almost inevitable when using the Gold series.. Hey its just my experience and Im sure that others may well have had different experiences. For those who are truly serious, two piece rotor/had combos are the go, be they DBA or others that have been set up correctly for the application. It all boils down to what you want and also expect.. I cannot overstate the value of a correctly specced and set up brake system.. still probably the best money you can spend on your vehicle..

Looks are just one thing, you need the thing to pull up well, again and again and again... And that will surely leave a smile on your face.. Remember, pads, rotors and fluid are just consumables, like fuel and tyres.

[boust]

hey guys ,

slightly off topic , but a question to the right people.

Do the 4 piston brembos, if upgraded on a fg xr6t fit under the xr 19" 5 spoke wheels, clearance wise ?

[HIRO F6]

Smicky, those RRP's are terrible.

42102XS - Hiro Price - $339each (Save nearly $190)

52102GLDXS - Hiro Price - $599each (Save nearly $277)

As for the debate about XS being better then SL, IMO I have to sway in favor of the SL's. I dont believe a cross drilled rotor would be a preferred option to any of my customers unless it was a certain look they were trying to obtain.

[nelsonian101]

hey guys ,

slightly off topic , but a question to the right people.

Do the 4 piston brembos, if upgraded on a fg xr6t fit under the xr 19" 5 spoke wheels, clearance wise ?

No, the FG 19" XR wheels don't clear either.

It's not a wheel diameter issue unfortunately.

There are a lot of 18" aftermarket wheels that do now though.

[nelsonian101]

nelson... hold on a sec bud, of course if you are heading down the path of tracking the car, one would assume more than just a 20kg or so weight saving on rotors and callipers would be considered. In such case go and get some REAL GEAR TO PULL THE CAR UP!

Rotors and pads are 'just a minor' starting point sir.

Just running the 5000's only would not really be of that great advantage v's $$$ for someone that tracks on a odd bored day, or to get away from the missus.

having said that, im not too sure if you are on track with the 5000 series, as there is NO 5000 rear rotor as you have mentioned "all 4 corners".

Paint (gold) was in reference to the 4000's, and as far as I know the 5000's (XS) are a gold hat also, hence the "gldxs" part number.

You will find the "blksl/r" are black - this is the hat which comes in the kit for the 'slotted only' rotors.

anyways... like I said "IMO" (In My Opinion)... so enough from me...

F6RD: Just get yourself the 4000XS's the replacement rotor for the 5000's is just as exe as the whole 4000's...

5000's either SL/R or XS will give you a minor weight saving, they will also give a minor advantage of the 4000's in a heat and expansion ability where serious braking like that of being on a track may find a small advantage. Other wise....

So unless you have bottomless pockets... 4000XS's FTW.

XS v SL - long in short you have the best of both worlds with XS - most people are concerned about drilled cracking then finding half the rotor attached to the hub, and the other half flying out the back of the car.

Im yet to have found ANY CRACKS WHAT SO EVER on my XS's, and they have a bit of work to do when im behind the wheel.

The advantage of having the drills are not only for heat reduction, but also where the slots wear done, the drilled holes will assist in the gases being removed also. Therefore a worn XS v SL - XS will still out perform a worn SL.

"just for show".... Not exactly... Quite simple really.

Each time you wash the car (or at least once a week) just have a quick look and check the holes, any cracks get it checked, if not - your all good).

Take a look at a few of the following:

DBA Kangaroo PAW | www.dba.com.au

The 4000 & 5000 Series Brake Video | www.dba.com.au

WHAT DOES SLOTTING DO? | www.dba.com.au

Why use drilled or slotted discs? | www.dba.com.au

Why buy DBA 5000 series disc rotors | www.dba.com.au

HOW DOES SLOTTING ONLY vs CROSS-DRILLING COMPARE IN PERFORMANCE? | www.dba.com.au

My apologies mate, you are correct pointing out my statement regarding the weight saving on all four corners; it was in reference to my lighter wheels (on 4 corners) and front 5000 rotors, not rear rotors.........but who is being picky smicky? Just kidding mate

5000's are more cost effective for me though as I go through a lot of rotors tracking the car plus high kms/yr. For others it may not be the right choice, but I still recommend them. I have them in slotted/ black hub.

I am well aware there are more effective rotor/caliper combos for track work but it is getting too far from this thread's requirement. I believe in maximising the performance of your own caliper set up before moving to the next stage.

There is a lot of debate re: slotted vs drilled but I'm not going to get into it here. In my opinion slotted is still the way to go for high performance applications.

[smicky]

Smicky, those RRP's are terrible.

aaahhh - Hiro, im sure I dont need to point this out... but RRP is Recommended Retail Price, hence not prices I would sell them at, or advise anyone... they were in fact taken from the DBA website..."Recommended Retail"... (Funny enough - I remember 'cut and pasting' them directly from the site actually...

So I would say, you may need to understand the meaning of what I wrote before trying to point something out... hhhhmmmm

Having said that. No offence but I find your listed price on here is... well... no comment..

those that know what im eluding to know what im otherwise saying (and that's all that matters) :thumsbup:

BTW - Nothing like a bit of advertising on a car forum is there Hiro?

(Shame the pricing isnt anything to special but).

My apologies mate, you are correct pointing out my statement regarding the weight saving on all four corners; it was in reference to my lighter wheels (on 4 corners) and front 5000 rotors, not rear rotors.........but who is being picky smicky? Just kidding mate :)5000's are more cost effective for me though as I go through a lot of rotors tracking the car plus high kms/yr. For others it may not be the right choice, but I still recommend them. I have them in slotted/ black hub.I am well aware there are more effective rotor/caliper combos for track work but it is getting too far from this thread's requirement. I believe in maximising the performance of your own caliper set up before moving to the next stage.There is a lot of debate re: slotted vs drilled but I'm not going to get into it here. In my opinion slotted is still the way to go for high performance applications.

Nelson, thanks for the acknowledgement, as mentioned I was just trying to clear a few things up for others out there on the kits, bells (hubs), etc.

As you have mentioned, as have I; In my opinion.

Not to sure how the cost effectiveness comes into play but - the replacement rotor component to the 5000's is still more expensive to the replacement 4000 single piece.

Weight saving - agree; if tracking ok, however if im not mistaken there was no talk in the orignal post/question relating to a 'lot' of track work, if any at all. Hence no reason IMO for the 5000's.

SL v XS - hehehe each to there own. Do still stand by my comment (and those of DBA themselves) "when the slots are worn the vented holes will still assist greater over that of a solid (or near solid) rotor.

Edited 15/09/10 11:59 AM by smicky

[HIRO F6]

So I would say, you may need to understand the meaning of what I wrote before trying to point something out... hhhhmmmm

Agreed, I certainly am struggling to understand your comments.

No need to censor your comments smicky as im sure im not the only one trying to establish what your eluding to.

I wasnt aware you too sold on behalf of DBA.

BTW - Nothing like a bit of advertising on a car forum is there Hiro?

Well it keeps this place afloat. Dont think this place would still be here if it wasnt for the support of your forum sponsors smicky

[smicky]

Hiro, ok mate, I think im just going to sit here and have a huge laugh!

that's about all Im going to say!

(Re- pricing, mate, send me a PM and happy to look at any needs you may have with the DBA's, not going to tell you who, what, when or why, but when you help out plenty of people in various industries, there is an element of "mates rates"... )

Oh and yes they are from DBA.

Best of luck son with those prices, comments and well - I'm over this!

Edited 18/09/10 04:02 AM by smicky