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My baby turned 300 at last (pic heavy)


discostig

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 17y 3m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

I was able to carefully lever the passenger side pistons back in with it on the car.

Long story short I put everything back on the car including second new rotor (both faces of each cleaned with brake cleaner!), scuffed up the existing pads with the end of a file (right on to the garage floor) to give a raw surface again. I did a one man brake bleed - took the lid from my old brake fluid container which I've run the clear drain hose through/into and put it on the new fluid bottle, ensured the hose travelled upwards 10cm or so before descending into the stationary bottle. The existing fluid was fairly clean looking as it's recently been changed and hadn't thrashed the brakes too much. Same type as the new bottle. Thus I was able to push the fluid through without losing any, whilst being sure the air would stay at the top of the hose for the time it took me to run back and nip up the bleed nipple. Far from ideal though.

Did that a bunch of times on each corner and it was about 1am so I assessed the brakes....felt "OK" but fairly spongy still. Checked everything (including front hose to rim clearance) and put wheels back on. Put jack/tools and fluid in the boot. Not wanting to wake up the house I rolled the car the 100m down to the road and fired it up. Test drive was OK, I took it very slowly at first just on my own street and checked fluid levels a lot as you can imagine. Still spongy but could stop well enough so I gave it a go at bedding in the pads/rotors. I'm sure the houses in the area loved hearing that at 1:30am on a Monday.

Made it to work and back on Monday...drove extra carefully as I could feel braking was down on what it used to be. No leaks, no rubbing on hoses and fluid levels stable. At home again I got assistance to bleed them properly and that brought things back to top form. Still finished up alone at 2am again but was happy with the car.

Driving today was fantastic, braided lines feel awesome. Bit of a squeak from the new rotors but only at light slow braking, I care not. Will try a few high speed slow downs to really get the surfaces mated. Now that the brakes are good I can turn on the stereo again too and enjoy the improved sounds.

So with that horror show behind me I'm going to get the things fully flushed at a shop near work anyway, there were tiny tiny bubbles from the fronts which persisted during the bleed but I called it at 11pm so my lovely assistant could go to sleep for her 6am wake up...not sure if that would be from reusing the recently driven on fluid? Had to stop draining and take the bottle to refill reservoir about ten times. One post I read said just get 12 feet of the hose and run it right back to the reservoir...not enough hose or fluid on me for that though!

Anyway I'm buggered from it all so here's the before and after pics. Moral of the story, start jobs early on a Saturday in case of a SNAFU situation (caused by rushing things trying to get the 2 person bleed started) so I can call in favours/get to shops or even hire a car if need be!

Rears before and after

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Fronts

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In the above pic you can see the effect the fluid and ring spanners had on the paint around the outside bleed nipple. I removed the flakes and dried it as best I could Monday night. Tonight I washed the car and dried that spot so I could touch up the area, looks much better again. Should be dry enough by morning to refit the rubber cap (it has a bottom halfthat slips under the nut portion of the nipple so had to remove for painting).

Cars eh!

Edited by -Stever-
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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 3m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Cheers for the brake fluid tip. I did read that in the Ford manual now that you mention it, rinse off with water immediately. Had no time to google it so I was just wiping it off with rags and then paper towel. Not much got on the logo face areas as the spray came from the inside bottom piston.

Fresh pic of the touch up job. Needs more layers but that will be done later. Looks much better than black and red surfaces.

20140812_225659.jpg

Edited by -Stever-
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  • less WHY; more WOT
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  • Member For: 16y 10m 19d
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  • Location: Melbourne

No worries, mate. A mechanic mate told me it and it's probably the single most important/helpful bit of advise I've got for working on mine and others' cars. It's the same for clutch fluid (obviously not a problem for you :P ). All you ever hear about publicly with regard to brake fluid is that it's corrosive/dangerous... yes, that's true... but water makes this not true!

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 17y 3m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

That's how I was saying it in my head, I should have put that pic in myself! Cheers guys.

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  • less WHY; more WOT
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  • Member For: 16y 10m 19d
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  • Location: Melbourne

They are temperature indicators. They usually either go white or black (sometimes clear) when the brakes are at a certain temperature (which is usually an indication of whether it is in the "high wear" temperature ranges etc).

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  • Moar Powar Babeh
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  • Member For: 19y 5m 6d
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  • Location: Perth

They are brake pad alignment marks. If you are resuing the old pads you align the end of the pad with the red mark, if you are using new pads you align it with the yellow.

The basic concept is to remind you to install the pads before bleeding the brakes.

Drives unpainted car for years, no brake fluid spills. Get brakes painted, spills brake fluid on them.....SteveLogic

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
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  • Member For: 17y 3m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Hahaha disregard above post, he's on holiday and too much time on his hands

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