Brake Shudder

[EvilDaifu]

Perhaps contact Howard (owner) at Race Brakes in Yarraville (Melbourne) for his advice? He helped me get rid of my brake shudder. I used dba 4000 slotted rotors on the front (and also have them on the back now). I used Race Brakes RB24 pads. No brake shudder and I had it real bad before the change. The RB24s cost about $108 for a pair. I suggest you try them - what have you got to lose (except brake shudder ). Anyway, my opinion

[rockafellqeinstien]

I expect my shudder to start comming on slightly by the end of the week as I do about 500kms a week...

500km's - that's bad.

Do you know from which corner the shudder is comming from?

When I changed mine, I did the rears first and this was where most of my issues were comming from (was scarY) But I left a set of cheap (caliber) pads on the rears to see what would happen. on the fronts, I replaced both disc and pads ($100 set racing breaks ones I think). I figure if its the pads that are causing the shudder, the rears should end up screwed just like before (because I am using the same type of pads). if the shudder doesnt come back (and 10,000km it hasnt) then I can say it was the rotor causing it becuase I am using the same pads.

So my eperiment is leaning towards discs at this stage.

Also worth noting that if my rears do get screwed up by the pads my rda slotted only cost less than $80 each.

[dule]

Seems like you've tried almost everythin but have you checked you bearings? If the bearing has too much play the hub will not sit properly and in turn the disk too and this will cause uneven disk wear. This was noted on the DBA instalation instructions, there is a maximum tolerance.

[Guest XR09]

How come some are getting this brake shudder and some are not ?

I had my original brakes on for 15 thou and no shudder. I have had the Brembo 6/4 set up on for twenty thou and never a shudder. Not in light braking, creeping or full on hard braking. I am a left foot braker and drive an auto. I don't get it.

I changed the brake fluid to Penrite Sin when my car had 5,000 kays on it as I boiled the original fluid.

Surely it cant be brake fluid.

[dule]

I think a lot of it comes to driving style, stopping with your brakes still applied while they are still cooking is one of the worst things you can do.

[orangeute338]

my front rotors have a ton of hot spots and even cracks, been meaning to pull them off the machine them, just waiting for the day they explode or something nasty at the end of the track...

[Pete A]

I think a lot of it comes to driving style, stopping with your brakes still applied while they are still cooking is one of the worst things you can do.

This is spot on. I had this problem with the BA II XR8 and had to have the disks machined twice within about 20,000K's and I don't drive hard by any means. A mechanic put me on to this idea. After a reasonably hard stop, don't leave the brakes applied. If you're in traffic, release brakes and apply hand brake. It does not apply to the rear. If you can't do that, just apply and release slowly so the wheel keeps turning a bit and the heat is not concentrated in one spot.

I've done this since 20,000K on the BA (sold it at 80,000K and now 25,000 k on the FG and have never had a problem again. It's actually common sense when you think of it. I'm sure higher quality components will reduce the occurance and this which is also supported in this forum, but I think the same principle may apply. Give it a go, it worked for me and sounds like others as well.

[Rosie]

Go and talk to John at 'V-Sport in Arndell Park in Sydney!

- They are the 'AP Racing' suppliers in Sydney and really know their stuff!

They support a lot of serious Track Cars as well!

[Smoke them tyres]

If pads are doing what is described here, I would be giving those the flick and looking for a better/different quality pad. They shouldn't be so temperamental. Are most of the cars autos where the brake has to be applied to keep them stopped?

Sounds like some of the pad resins can't take the heat of reasonable use and deposit themselves on the disc as a consequence?????

Can people list the brand and variety of pad that they have installed so we can narrow it down some more?

I have always looked for pads with as much brass and copper in them as possible. I have always found these to be a great overall performer.

Edited 16/07/10 10:41 AM by Smoke them tyres

[wiresquire]

I had seen a post somewhere that a bloke re-torqued the wheel nuts to the factory spec, and that got rid of his brake shudder.

Should be easy enough to check...

ws