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Have Shot A Rod Out Of Block


razza0066

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  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 9m 4d
  • Gender: Male

I have shot a rod out my block in my ba mark 2 xr6 turbo. It only has 39 000 km on it has a tune to 262 kw at wheels on 10 psi and about 215 at 8 psi. Only had for few months and this happend was wondering if im better off building new bottom end from block upwards or have noticed alot of people talking about the f6 short motors. Wasnt sure which way would be better and the price diference. Still suprised it happend cause of the low power compared to some people are running and only had on 8 psi most of time. I have heard alot of people saying it has to do with the tune also so was wondering if any one in sa has had a problem with kpm motorsport tunes. The car was tuned before I got it few years prior though so not sure if I was just giving it a bit to much.

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  • Member For: 17y 5m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Broady, Melbourne

Sorry to hear mate. I went through the same thing after owning my car for 2 weeks with 55k km on the clock - bent 2 rods and ruined the block. I initially went down the F6 short motor path because at the time, it suited my budget and my desired power levels. But 1.5 years later, I started wanting more and went down the built motor path. Initially, I was getting a shop to do the work and my budget was around 20k for under bonnet work only. A few months later, I wanted to go a little further with it and my budget became 50k including the drive train.

I think you need to look at 2 or 3 main things. Are you planning on doing much 1/4 mile stuff, how much power do you think you want to make and what is your budget? Answering these things will dictate what to do I reckon. I think for the high 300's rwkw, an F6 short (add valve springs and billet oil pump gears) with a 'safe' tune and well maintained, can last you years. Of course, doing regular 1/4 mile work with an F6 short on higher power levels will change that.

Going the F6 short could cost you as little as the 6k mark depending on who and what you know. Building a forged bottom end will add a few k to that depending on what you do.

Edited by straughsberry
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  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 9m 4d
  • Gender: Male

wont be doing any 1/4 mile runs just my daily driver, was still hoping to get 300 to 350 kw so maybe the f6 short motor is the best way to go, just dont want it to happen again. Gonna call ford and a few places today and get some quotes, but heard u need a fpv to get a f6 short motor from ford. Was hoping to spend around 10 grand max wanted to get exaust and cooler as well though so see how I go cheers for help straughsberry

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  • Banned
  • Member For: 15y 6m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aspendale, Vic.

keep eyes peel on ebay. I got a full long bf f6 07 tornado motor for 4500$ delivered from qld with 20,000km's. Try your luck on a BF or if u can spare few extra $$ for a fg short block.

Will cost you bout 1000$ for an engine swap (fluids and a re-dyno tune) in about 2 days @ a workshop.

your 10k will cover engine + swap + mods to achieve 300-350 so you will be fine.

Id say you had less then half a tank of fuel when you were pushign it and not having a surge tank. Its how most of us have blown a rod...myself included.

Just remember, when you get a new motor, make sure its been made AFTER 06/06 for the stronger rods+v/springs.

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  • Mmmmm......BOOST
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  • Member For: 17y 9m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: central coast

the last I heard was you only need to change one engine mount to drop the fg short into a ba , no need for looms etc.

send dat40l from newy a message he has the fg in the ba

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  • Cruise Control
  • Member For: 19y 2m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

mate ring bruce heinrich, the cheapest bloke in sa to do your donk, pretty busy though so don't think it will be a 2 week job,..was it a custom tune or generic? I think he rccomends an fg short which he puts bigger rods in last one I heard was 5500- 6k fitted I think

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