Turbo Conversion Help

[104ord]

with the water lines I split the 2 heater hoses that come out of the fire wall above the exhaust and put 5/8 copper tee fittings into the split hoses and ran one as the feed and the other as the return easy ad effective I dont have any photos but ill see what I can find

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[zayd687]

good advice, can anybody view the pics I cant?!???!??

104ord couple questions,

when tapping the sump, how did you make sure not to get shavings into the sump??? I always thought drilling it could have some lead into the sump?

did you use braided hoses also for the waterlines or the standard waterlines from an xr6t?

just more specific, what bit did u use to drill into the sump ? and did u use any additives to secure the barbed fitting ? once u tapped it in?

great advice!

[bluprinturbo]

fit up an oil cooler kit and pull oil from that.

[104ord]

I just greased up the drill and tap and cleaned out evey few mm of penatration. I flushed the oil out after wards and since never found any more shavings in the last 10 services. I used 5/8 heater hose from the local hydraulic workshop and they also supplied me with all of my fittings.

I used a 9/16 drill bit with a 3/8-19 bspt tap which is what suited the barb fitting I had.

[104ord]

if this is a route you may take let me know as I have still got the drill bit, the tap and a spare barbed fitting

[zayd687]

if this is a route you may take let me know as I have still got the drill bit, the tap and a spare barbed fitting

thanks for the advice on the fitting measurements it will become useful.

I have one more question, with the ba's when installing the cooler , do I have to angle grind the sub frame that's behind the front bar?? aam I braketing the cooler onto the subframe? im just not sure if I have to bracket it there or elsewhere and whether I need to angle cut nething when installing it. the rest of it I think is quite straight forward. thanks for your guys help and thethread starter

[Guest XR09]

Dont get me wrong, I am all for people improving their cars, but I have to ask why you don't sell the Fairmont and grab an xr6T? The cost difference between the conversion and just changing out cars will be minimal, and you will have an engine that is designed to run a turbo. For example, what are you doing about the compression ratio?

If you love the fairmont, why not grab a long motor and transplant it? For the sakes of reliability and power, its going to net a better result at the end of the day.

I understand some people like to do things themselves, but why crawl when you can run?

When I bought my FG XR last August it had 8,000k's on it and cost $27,500. It's a company car and I had to stay under 32k. Yes I own the company but that was what the budget allowed so the car actually cost me personally nothing. Thanks Johnie!!! The cheapest XRT at the time was 42k and a demo with 24k km. A 14.5 k diference. Cv performance was selling F6 complete motors for 11 - 13K at the time.

The fg has the same ecu, same gearbox zf, same bad drive shaft and the diff in the T is useless. Same weak half shafts. Same interior and exterior.

Now to trade I will get maybe 22k on a 2nd hand T, and so far the best price for one is 39k.... mmmm 17k to spend on a motor. I have to go through a dealer to write it off as far as my finance manager is concerned.

Its just not like it use to be with the BA/BF's.

Also maybe someone like me does not want the original Holland vibrating crank, shoite oil feed, weak rods and sloppy springs. And now cosworth is doing the pistons. Wooo hoo.

So now I have a FG with a proper suspension set up, Tein, super pro, upgraded rear bar. 6/4 brembo's, Kaaz dif and half shafts. still need a drive shaft. I would have put all this on a T if my budget would have allowed. Would love someone to make some carbon suspension bits to reduce unsprung weight some more.

So pretty much everything that I paid extra for on a T would have gone in the bin anyway. But now I have a rolling chassis that can properly handle 350rwkw it can stop and go around corners like a proper car and not a boat with a full bilge.

Oh and I worked for the transport department. Its no big thing turboing a car and having it plated. And I would rather it was legal anyway. Same with insurance. Well if you have a good broker and a good license. So now I have 17k for the motor. And the car still cost me nothing with only two more years on the lease. I can live with the n/a for another year and it will be 25k for the motor.

Yes it helps I am good mechanically and my best mate has a workshop. Without that then yep your dead right. But if your goal is to BUILD a car, a proper car through and though, then it really is horses for courses.

Ps the compression is only the gasket. I have been though the workshop manual over and over comparing the parts.

Mate not having a dig and your right with doing an old clunker. And quite possibly I am mad. But its my money well Johnie's/Rudd's/Julia's/Abbots ha ha. There is just something about doing it yourself, your own blood sweat and tears. Knowing it all down to the last bolt. Too bloody good.

[antman89]

I wish my tax could hurry up and return to my bank account so I can order the rest of my stuff and use these inspiring words to complete my project. Im no car mechanic but a aircraft mechanic and I love coming home and tinkering with cars its a different world with same principles. Thanks everyone for your help.