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What Kws Are You Getting


P_BA_XR6

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  • Member For: 15y 3m 27d
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  • Location: Aspendale, Vic.

sure if it justified the costs of 1300+ for a x3 + tune. or a j3 + tune is like 500$. Not like there will be a 20rwkw diff between the 2.

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  • Member For: 18y 10m 26d
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  • Location: North West Hot Hell,VIC

Dont they only use J3 chips on the E series ,Isnt that why we all initially went with flash tuners on our B series cars ?

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  • Member For: 18y 6d
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Can't use a J3 on a BA... and they have camS not just a cam. lol.

My old BA XR6 ute had usual stuff.. intake/full exhaust, t5, 3.7 gears, cams + tune and only made 170~rwkw.. but ran a 14.0 1/4 mile.

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  • Member For: 17y 9m 30d
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I know this is a na discussion but I had a na beat my BAXR6t with To4z, hdi cooler, xforce exhaust, Plazmaman plenum, seimens injectors etc eta.

If only my turbo to ic hose didn't blow off.

Serious now,

Some good numbers there for those na's.

Do suggest to either go with a decent tune from either sct flash, vfm or snipper to get the most from your cars.

Pretty much the setup OP is running except his clutch.

If your chasing dyno numbers stay with the manual, preferably a t5 as it has smaller internals so should not rob as much power.

A bit of intake porting would help as I'm pretty sure the flow percentages are same as T heads and it is suited for boost applications.

You want as close as possible a 1% intake flow to 0.75 exhaust flow in a na application.

Research your exhausts, pacemakers work well, find a cat that flows well, I have had great results from race magnum mufflers in the past mind you there are plenty of good ones on the market these days.

Don't go any bigger then 2.5 or you will loose to much bottom end, make sure you use mandrel bends and that all joins are flush for a uninterfeared flow path.

You want to find the best location on the car for the cold air intake as the more air pressure the better the cylinder fill.

Your intake needs to be as smooth as possible with least bends possible and the straighter the better.

Makes it hard where the throttle body is positioned, I have seen people reverse it so it points towards the strut tower, it's a good option as you will shorten the intake tract as well get rid of the usual 180 bend.

Other then that fit a scoope on bonnet to flow through filtered airbox straight into throttle body in it's original position.

Keep in mine the quicker the air can get in to the cylinders the more it fills it, then the more fuel can be added to give more power.

The exhaust needs to be able to draw as much from the cylinders as it can.

A lot of people get it wrong here as they think big large ports so you can fit more through, the problem is in doing so you lose air speed, which causes the cylinders to to fill or empty as much volume.

Mine you if building a engine to rev extremely high large ports are the choice, just lose all low down power though.

Hope helps some of you na guys in your power hunt.

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  • Member For: 17y 9m 30d
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Also don't bother to try building these i6's to rev past 6000 as you may get minimal power gain but at a high risk.

The oil pump can hydraulic itself to pieces (fixed by improving oil releif)

The rods and crank are both of cast iron and not strong enough to cope with sustained high revs.

As well being a low rev torque monster with it's long stroke small diameter piston you will find piston speed to be to excessive at higher then 6000rpm.

Also upgrade your valve springs as it will help with valve control.

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