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Accelerator Pedal Slow Response


mwoonkey

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  • Member For: 15y 10m 3d
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Im after some advice before paying to see a tuner

the problem is I need to put my accelerator pedal about 2cms down before getting any response at all

about an inch to get her to start moving, been to a few places including ford to find answers.

still boosts but need to almost floor it (about 2") to feel the pull in the car and not that much either

I want to feel the response like I used to, straight away

replaced tps on throttle body, replaced snapped throttle body bolt at ford (apparently prone to breaking on the older models) and cleaned.

new mapping sensor, cant remember what else I dont know sh*t about the car I just want it fixed

anyone else had this ????

any suggestgions would be much appreciated.

Edited by mwoonkey
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  • ʎǝʞuoɯ ɹoıuǝs
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auto or manual?

if auto, do you get better response in manual-mode or in performance mode as opposed to just leaving it in "D". perhaps the adaptive nature of the box has become a bit lazy? how do you normally drive it? I find "D" to be quite boring, but in performance mode or manual-mode there is a huge difference.

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ummm the response is the same in auto and shift as far as the feeling in the pedal goes anyway, although the boost is stronger in auto.... thought that was normal as it changes down a gear or 2 before boosting??? but still needing to put my foot down almost an inch before getting a reponse is an issue.

maybe the box is getting lazy :roflmbo::stupid: Im still hoping for a quick fix somewhere, but dont want to have to pay for more trial and error.

thank you for that too JC

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Could it be a boost leak? Check all your piping around the throttle and to the turbo.

no leaks as far as I can see... have pulled off piping many times to try find and even replaced some of the silicone joiners (using ceramic coated aliuminium xover w GFD BOV I think), want to get a HKS plate welded on to replace the current BOV with a SSQV.

pedal has gotten worse in the last 6 months Im sure??

thanks for the suggestions benji

Edited by mwoonkey
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  • Member For: 16y 8m 27d
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No probs, ive noticed with mine is that after just normal driving the Auto gets lazy and requires a fair push to get it to go in a hurry. Sport mode is better as it shifts quicker and give you more revs while cruising. I.e at 100 it will be in 5th rather than 6th.

It has always been like that, im thinking that due to the relatively restricted nature of the piping that stock cooler may have something to do with this. Ive heard from alot of people that replacing the cooler give better response. As far as I know I couldnt tell you as im still running stock.

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Give these a go

Remove the battery plugs for 30 mins

Or

Hold the pedal flat to the floor while starting the car (it wont start just crank over) hold the key in start do this for 5 or so seconds, this is meant to reset something maybe the Throttle Position Sensor as well as the cam phasers. It might help.

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No probs, ive noticed with mine is that after just normal driving the Auto gets lazy and requires a fair push to get it to go in a hurry. Sport mode is better as it shifts quicker and give you more revs while cruising. I.e at 100 it will be in 5th rather than 6th.

It has always been like that, im thinking that due to the relatively restricted nature of the piping that stock cooler may have something to do with this. Ive heard from alot of people that replacing the cooler give better response. As far as I know I couldnt tell you as im still running stock.

yeah :beerchug: I wish it were the case with mine but she is always feeling lazy..... bigger cooler may be a go $$$$$ but it may not as well.... who knows??? maybe take it in for a diagnostics at elite????

the question is will they find the prob???

had the cooler blown with a air gun when I had the turbo wheel and larger (BF 38mm wg hole) exhaust housing done... problem was there before the upgrade by the way.

any other suggestions

have tried resetting the tps via accelerator pedal crank thingee, might try the battery thing (dont like disconnecting any batteries???) does it need to be in factory tune before hand??

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not that I know of as the tune is not erased when power is cut, it just replaces the factory parameters. Might be a good idea to re-flash after hooking up the battery.

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so your car is idling as normal but nothing happens until the pedal is down an inch or so? is it responding at all during that slight travel or nothing and then away she goes? if nothing, then possibly your pedal assembly is shagged. if sluggishly responding until said increment then possible exhaust restriction.

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