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Xr6T Bonnet Pull Assembly Falls Apart


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  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 7m 12d

Hey,

Just an interesting footnote about the failure of the BA fuse block assembly, the RACQ recommended that owners of these vehicles operate the bonnet pull themselves at break down sites.

Also most important dont pull the bonnet release from outside the car where by it can put side pressure on the plastic mounting tabs in the fuse block assembly and subsequently cause its failure.

Always sit in the car and operate bonnet release square on.

fullboost

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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 11m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

Sounds like RACQ have snapped a few off during callouts!

At the motor show in Perth when the GT 40th was being debuted, I pulled the bonnet release and it broke/popped off..I quietly got out and walked over to the turbo. :roflmbo:

Edited by -SteveR-
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  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 9m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Straya

They're a piss poor design - if you don't have your hand at the right angle it will actually snap the thing off, they don't feel that sturdy.

Mines barely hanging on, gotta get some super-glue and stick it back together.

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  • 8 months later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 3m 17d

Guys, I have been unable to get the bonnet pull assembly to locate into this fuse panel.It just falls out

What breaks in this assembly? The locating cutout is in the lower right side.

thankyou, robbiefisher

Just broke mine today... Being extra careful with it but a lapse and opened it when not sitting in the seat and Balm...Oh well something for Ford to fix for warrantry I reckon..

AdrianF

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  • 4 years later...
  • Cruise Whore
  • Moderating Team
  • Member For: 19y 3m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

F@#$%^& broke my bonnet release lever tonight when I went to change the headlight globe - mines BA 2004. And yeah - pulled the lever from the outside the car. Usually sit in the drivers seat and do it but thought if I do it carefully and slowly should be okay. But no so :facepalm:

Anyway - does anyone know if you can just buy the lever assembly without all the associated cabling? (Plan to ring Ford either Sat or Mon to find out as well.) Am wondering if I need to just install a new lever assembly as that's the bit that broke. Looks as if my fuse box assembly is intact. I can see the cable and the small metal barrel on the end of the cable okay. Or does the cable come attached to the lever assembly so you have to re-thread everything - looks like a bugger of job :nono:

Thanks for any guidance :beerchug:

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  • Too heavy needs boost
  • Member
  • Member For: 11y 3m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

EBay. It cost me $40 for a whole new setup. Piss easy to do aslong as you havent broken the bracket that holds it on. The fuse bracket. Ba's had a issue with the handle being weak were the cable end held in. It was fixed in the bf series. Alot stronger molding around the cable end. Took me half hour to change over.

Edit: just follow the cable. Drivers side plastic arch over the tyre you have to have a play around with for access but the rest is pretty straight forward. Just follow the cable dude. Fark if I can do it anyone can. Lol

Edited by Bizkets is fat?
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  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 11m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure

I'm glad my PM reply advice aligns with Luke's wisdom!

Also found it fairly easy to install. Messy in my dusty wheel arch as mentioned by Bizkets but just remember to close your eyes when you pop out the plastic shroud and you'll be good hahaha

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