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Matts New Motor


mattyb

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gold Coast, QLD

Yep as bjc said. bolted it down to the fuse box where the +ve wire runs to from the battery as standard. I was sure I'd have to remove the old stuff, but when I did a trial run with it, it worked sweet. Had a couple of mates over to check it out, and apart from needing a few minor tweaks as stated above they couldn't fault it.

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  • 3 months later...
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 8m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gold Coast, QLD

Update for all...

10000k's on the new motor. Not using any oil, no leaks (apart from about 50ml of powersteering fluid every week). New process west stage 3 kit fitted along with 4" race air box.

I've got my actuator ready to fit up, and as soon as my tax comes back we'll be adding a ported rear housing, new powersteering line, and doing the centre diff bush, along with a tranny service, and a tune.

I'm still running the standard valve springs from my BF1 motor, what problems can this cause? if I replace these at a later date, do I need to get the car re-tuned?

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  • Three pedals are better then two..
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  • Member For: 17y 9m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Valve float, not really but will limit power. Might as well get it done while your there.

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  • Three pedals are better then two..
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 9m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Not as far as I know but more of a "while ya there then do it" thing. Heard of allot of T's that get held up on power due to valve float. It's not that expensive and needs to be done anyway.

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  • I see a red door and I want to paint it black
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  • Member For: 15y 4m 16d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Far north queensland

Have you still got the pic of the engine mount you had to mod? :innocent:

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