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Oil Pump Gears


mattyb

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 4m 30d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gold Coast, QLD

My new FG F6 motor arrived yesterday along with 90% of the parts I'm waiting on. All that's left is a cam guide, and my rapid 4" intake from Chris.

Today I got my timing cover off the old motor and removed the oil pump... I was astonished at the amount of cracks in the housing. I counted 50+ and that's just on the outside.

Here are some pics. I thought those of you who have destroyed oil pumps would like to see what your pump looked like before self destruction... and for those of you who haven't replaced them, here is why you should.

for those of you who don't know, I was running 330rwkw for 3 months, and then 360rwkw for 3 months and bent 2 rods, and was damn lucky not to have demolished the motor more with this.

Edited by mattyb
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  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 11m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane North

Holy sh*t that's amazing!!! Im assuming its an engine out job for this. When a rebuild is on the cards one day down the track ill be sure to attend to the time bomb as well.

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  • Moar Powar Babeh
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  • Member For: 19y 1m 20d
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  • Location: Perth

Ummm.....They are just casting marks....

All ally casting will have surface marks like that.

The issue is not the strength of the housing but the geo-rotor and gear itself. They fracture under high load and exit stage left though the housing.

Luke

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  • Member For: 18y 10m 25d
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  • Location: North West Hot Hell,VIC

I had my glasses on and couldnt see any.Thought I might need new glasses till hiddeous posted.LOL

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  • Member For: 16y 4m 30d
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  • Location: Gold Coast, QLD

Here's the thing, I'm a NDT technician... I test things for cracks, all day, everyday.

It's an alloy casting yes, some are casting dags, yes, some are cracks/indications that penetrate into the surface rather than extrude. I took it into ford where they had one in their parts bin, and low and behold it looked exactly the same as mine. I was still a bit sceptical, so I took it into work, cleaned it up, and did a penetrant test. Most were casting defects, and a couple, not the initial 60 or so, but a few, maybe 6, were indications/cracks (intruding rather than extruding). I've used an impact driver to try and undo the screws in the back but I can't get them to budge.

Just because it is the same as the new ford one, doesn't mean it's right, does it? Any difference between mine BF1 and a n FG pump?

My new motor came with a shiny new block, pistons, rods bearings, oil filter attachment, crank, and lower oil deflector thingy. All I need to add is the head (and associated parts), flexplate, oil pump, front housing, Oil pick-up, sump, manifolds and pulleys...

Cheers

Edited by mattyb
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  • Dropping a turd
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 16d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

I would dye pen the new housing , choose the best one, de-burr it and throw in a set of billet pump gears and have the housing and relief modified by nizpro.

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  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 19y 7m 5d
  • Gender: Male

I would dye pen the new housing , choose the best one, de-burr it and throw in a set of billet pump gears and have the housing and relief modified by nizpro.

Last time I checked, Brad from Atomic had already developed a new billet hardened steel cover to compliment his existing billet oil pump/gears..... :stupid: I would be giving him a call :bye:

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