Atomic Motors (Merged Topic).

[GOLDIE]

I mean as you have it apart do it at the same time.

Ian

[jetute]

Firstly to make your decisions you would have to know how much power you want to make, not just now, but in the future.

Pistons, who knows?

Conrods, Atomic rods are up to the task by all reports.

Bearing, I would change the bearings without a doubt.

I for one would consider changing just rods, due to a couple of reasons.

I could do the work myself and the cost would be realistic for me. Pistons would at least double the cost of the job.

I also decided long ago that I wanted 300-315rwkw's, that's approaching the point of rods according to the general opinion and I'd like the piece of mind knowing that it can be tuned and driven more aggressively.

That's my thoughts, I'm sure everyone will be different but that will depend on their ultimate goals and budget.

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thanks for your input adam... I have been thinking along the same lines only due to budget etc...

I do want to make an informed decision though and hence my hypothetical questions... I have just on 300rwkw and I am not chasing more power. Maybe rods alone would do me I dont know.

I also need to weigh in the cost of brakes as I definately need these above all else... maybe rods and brakes and a max of 310rwkw.

decisions decisions

[O2STOCK]

If the power generated was mid 300RWKW would the standard pistons survive ?

I too am thinking of the upgrade. But undecided about what is needed. My idea KW is 320-350RWKW.

Cost is a factor when doing the rebuild what is needed at what power level I guess

[Adam]

A couple of guys from WA have shown that the stock piston can handle it.

They even went from forged back to stock due to the rattling.

As to the point that they become a liability I'm not sure.

[O2STOCK]

A couple of guys from WA have shown that the stock piston can handle it.

They even went from forged back to stock due to the rattling.

As to the point that they become a liability I'm not sure.

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that's my concern.

Going from a smooth no rattle motor to a forged piston motor ....... maybe rods are all that's required ?

Has anyone had a F6 rod brake ? I am not sure all BFT's have the same rods as the Phoons.

Maybe the $2500 bottom end is the go from FORD ? for 300-350 RWKW

Ideas ?

[jetute]

I already have rollover noise from the gearbox... am not sure that I want piston rattle as well

[O2STOCK]

I already have rollover noise from the gearbox... am not sure that I want piston rattle as well

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Maybe with over 300RWKW you are ment to wear a helmet all the time you are driving to block the noise

[GOLDIE]

I am lead to believe this a bf rod and piston.

Guys can I say if you are going to spend that sort of money don't do it by half do it fully and fit better pistons.

Ian

[F6 RAPID]

A couple of guys from WA have shown that the stock piston can handle it.

They even went from forged back to stock due to the rattling.

As to the point that they become a liability I'm not sure.

←

that's my concern.

Going from a smooth no rattle motor to a forged piston motor ....... maybe rods are all that's required ?

Has anyone had a F6 rod brake ? I am not sure all BFT's have the same rods as the Phoons.

Maybe the $2500 bottom end is the go from FORD ? for 300-350 RWKW

Ideas ?

←

Man, don't be too hung up on the noise from a forged engine motor, it really is not that bad.

If anyone in Brisbane wants to hear an Atomic engine, just let me know and you can listen to mine. It obviously has forged CP pistons in it.

When it is cold and first starts, it is a little noisy. I am still running a mineral based oil with not an optimum viscosity rating so I actually expect it to quieten down at 3000kms when I change the oil to 10w-60 Castrol Edge. When it warms up, at idle it sounds a little like a diesel - but much more subdued and quieter, when you have about 1500rpm on board, nothing, normal engine.

The hotter the motor gets, the quieter it gets everywhere - why? Forged pistons expand when they heat up hence the larger than cast piston to bore clearance when built. Believe it or not, my car actually produces more power when there is some good heat in the motor for this reason. Weird I know, but true story.

Keep in mind if you do decide to rebuild with forged pistons, do some homework. You have to let your car warm up quite a bit before driving it so as to avoid piston slap against the bores that can (and will) over time oval your pistons.

I am with Ian though Jetter. If you have the thing apart, do it once and do it properly for piece of mind. Do your oil pump gears while you are there also then you can dial in a higher rev limit for over-rev when you need it without worrying about boom.

[Romulus]

Lean mixtures on there on will not cause this type of failure due to the fact that cylinder pressure will be reduce due to the lack of combustible mixture. This is one of the key point I have shown on the engine dyno to all who have attending our training seminars. I am usually looked at with discussed when first explaining this, as people are very reluctant to believe that in some cases a richer mixture will actually cause the onset of detonation . Mind due once shown people are simple amazed.

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finally someone agree's with me!!!!!

as to the main reason I have seen for rod failure its been rod bolts

cylinder preasures due to torque have not been an issue for me but

seen a lot of bent rods due to detonation though

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So what do you think causes the rod bolts to fail? I'm of the opinion that over-revving the engine has a large part to do with it. The same can be said about oil pump gear failures.