Hectic Wog Break Through!

[RAP1D]

You cant just pull a magic AFR figure out of thin air and say its the best to use, theres alot more to it than that.

A good torque making figure effectivness will depend on psi level, timing, Intake temps, Exhaust gas temps ect... its all effected greatly by the motors supporting hardware.

Ive seen XR6Ts rattle/ping with AFRs in the rich 11s, and others produce very smooth strong power in the mid 12s without det...

Get it on a dyno, check afr's and detonation... or if you know what your doing atleast have a wideband set up and a tunnel to drive through.

[supercharged88]

  On 14/02/2010 at 1:06 AM, Wenier said:

The perfect mixture is 12:1 so 14.7 is rich and 11 would start on the lean scale. So for best full economy and all that aim for 12.5 so you have a little bit of room for error.

When talking Air Fuel ratios, the lower the number the richer the mixture.EG; 11:1 is rich, 15:1 is lean.Dont forget you can see very high numbers on decel, injector cut out. Edited 14/02/10 01:39 AM by supercharged88

[ratter]

as mentioned there are no magic numbers, but 14.7 is what all these cars run in closed loop, it is this way as it is the cleanest mixture for emissions, if you wanted fuel economy you could run maybe 17:1 but mods would have to be done to the ignition systems to stop enigne issues.

Full power on paper is normally made around 12.6:1 but more power can sometimes be seen from running leaner than that.

Running too rich can rob power but also help cool combustion temp unless running on LPG

Air fuel ratio is not the most important thing, having the correct spark advance for the mixture is critical, you could 1 run of these cars at 14.7:1 if you wanted and keep it alive by having the correct spark advance.

[TUR-BO6]

****O.K.****Testing done today. ****

0.5psi of boost drop from temps between last night and today. :down:

Innovate wide band air/fuel gauge from rocket industries.

Dangerous to not concentrate 100% one the road but dyno was out of service so have done it now and I now exactly where I stand.

IDLE:---------------------------14.6------------LAMBDA:----1

SHORT REV:----------------------12.8------------LAMBDA:----1

SLOW ACCEL TO 60KMPH:-----------15.1------------LAMBDA:----1.02

CRUISE AT 50:-------------------14.6------------LAMBDA:----1.01

CRUISE AT 60:-------------------14.7------------LAMBDA:----1.02

HARD ACCEL:---------------------11.2------------LAMBDA:----0.78

CRUISE AT 100:------------------14.6------------LAMBDA:----1

MEDIUM ACCEL:-------------------14.5------------LAMBDA:----0.96

2ND GEAR 2500RPM TO REDLINE:----10.9------------LAMBDA:----0.75

3RD GEAR 2500RPM TO REDLINE:----11.2------------LAMBDA:----0.79- that was fast!!!

2500RPM IN 2ND AND 3RD:---------14.6------------LAMBDA:----1

ummm... can I get some advise on what I have found ...pleasepleasepleasepleasepleasepleasePLEASE...with sugar on top!

Edited 14/02/10 06:26 AM by TUR-BO6

[IH8TOADS]

that's rich. BUT....generic tunes are so primative it's not funny and the borderline knock table looks like it's been edited by a 4yr old. I logged an XR6T that ran 13.7 afr @ WOT with 18psi and no autitable detonation (wasn't tuned like this...car just had a few issues). The engine was seeing half the spark advance you see in a generic tune. Point is take ratter's advice.....afr is only a part of the puzzle. Spend the monry and have it tuned correctly :-)

[Gee]

  On 14/02/2010 at 6:20 AM, TUR-BO6 said:

****O.K.****Testing done today. ****

0.5psi of boost drop from temps between last night and today. :down:

Innovate wide band air/fuel gauge from rocket industries.

Dangerous to not concentrate 100% one the road but dyno was out of service so have done it now and I now exactly where I stand.

IDLE:---------------------------14.6------------LAMBDA:----1

SHORT REV:----------------------12.8------------LAMBDA:----1

SLOW ACCEL TO 60KMPH:-----------15.1------------LAMBDA:----1.02

CRUISE AT 50:-------------------14.6------------LAMBDA:----1.01

CRUISE AT 60:-------------------14.7------------LAMBDA:----1.02

HARD ACCEL:---------------------11.2------------LAMBDA:----0.78

CRUISE AT 100:------------------14.6------------LAMBDA:----1

MEDIUM ACCEL:-------------------14.5------------LAMBDA:----0.96

2ND GEAR 2500RPM TO REDLINE:----10.9------------LAMBDA:----0.75

3RD GEAR 2500RPM TO REDLINE:----11.2------------LAMBDA:----0.79- that was fast!!!

2500RPM IN 2ND AND 3RD:---------14.6------------LAMBDA:----1

ummm... can I get some advise on what I have found ...pleasepleasepleasepleasepleasepleasePLEASE...with sugar on top!

I have an air/fuel ratio gauge in my car. My does run slightly leaner about 0.5 afr under acceleration and on the cruise it about the same but as people have said the afr is only one part of a good safe tune.

[TUR-BO6]

thanks guys am going to talk to a local dyno shop, get all the figures and throw them up here for a quick look.he is local but he doesnt have any interest in playin with our style of toys.he will get the figures for me then I can go about taking the correcting actions.my tune is around 3 grand away - about 600 for a hdi cooler from ebay and around 700 at a guess for injectors then around 500 for valve springs and around 900 for a tune at a guess.

so I wont be tuning in the next 3 months. my car is awesome to me but my house comes first.if it sh*ts itself ill just have to take a walk to work.

:-(

[TUR-BO6]

apparently spark is adjusted when tuning so im stuck with what ever capa put on the control.there is adjustment of global spark and 2000rpm increment adjustments but I dont want to press the wrong button...

thoughts...?

Edited 23/02/10 07:54 AM by Buf-Phoon
quote removed