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Front Diff Bushes


ASNU

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  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 10m 2d

ooops,sorry mate.Got a bit carried away and forgot we were talkin turbo territorys.

If the window is just slow it needs a lube but if it is intermittantly not working it is most likely the switch as when the motor sh*ts itself they just dont work. Lube the channels before the motor or reg dies.

The way we check the balljoints is when the cars up in the air by putting a pry bar in between the lower arm (right next to the balljoint)and the stub assy and lever down. The brakes are too small still unless you have Brembos. The standard territorys cant cope so they put bigger brakes for the turbo and they still dont dissapate enough heat causing hot spots and warpage.

Good things I can tell ya bout them is......they have alot of storage compartments,they have a nice turbo and have good grip in the wet with the power they have.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 8m 16d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Ascot, Western Australia

Dyno J.

I have done 130K on very very easy Ks mate.

I think maybe when you add some power the bush on side to side chopps out as cant put up with the force/Maybe.

The 2 bushes at present have no rubber at all on each side.Totally chopped out.

I really dont flog this car either.

That's probably the reason that ours aren't showing signs of wear yet.

Only travelled 47,000 K's, but most have been with lowered suspension and very heavy Twenty Inch Strong chrome wheels.

Has spent a bit of time on the dyno and a few runs down the 1/4 mile, currently making ~450Kw at the engine.

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  • Member For: 21y 10m 7d
  • Location: Brooklyn

That's probably the reason that ours aren't showing signs of wear yet.

Only travelled 47,000 K's, but most have been with lowered suspension and very heavy Twenty Inch Strong chrome wheels.

Has spent a bit of time on the dyno and a few runs down the 1/4 mile, currently making ~450Kw at the engine.

Dyno.

Can you give me the specs of tyres etc as got offered some 20s the other day to suit.

I dont want to run 35 series tyres either.

Have you got 45s on yours and what was the lowering measurement you did?.

Did you use king springs?.

What does the car ride like now as dont want to sacrifice ride quality either.I like it abit cruisy.

Can you post a picture if you have time and when suits of the gap of your tyres to the top of front panel if possible.

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  • Member For: 17y 8m 16d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Ascot, Western Australia

Dyno.

Can you give me the specs of tyres etc as got offered some 20s the other day to suit.

I dont want to run 35 series tyres either.

Have you got 45s on yours and what was the lowering measurement you did?.

Did you use king springs?.

What does the car ride like now as dont want to sacrifice ride quality either.I like it abit cruisy.

Can you post a picture if you have time and when suits of the gap of your tyres to the top of front panel if possible.

275/40/20 Hankook Ventus.

Lovells 45mm lowered springs- Front came dowm ~60mm and rear has been fitted with 10mm spacers, these level the car out when its fully loaded.

There are a few more pictures in the members section.

Ride quality with tyres was similar to standard.

When lowered it is a bit firmer, but not uncomfortable.

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  • Member For: 21y 10m 7d
  • Location: Brooklyn

ooops,sorry mate.Got a bit carried away and forgot we were talkin turbo territorys.

If the window is just slow it needs a lube but if it is intermittantly not working it is most likely the switch as when the motor sh*ts itself they just dont work. Lube the channels before the motor or reg dies.

The way we check the balljoints is when the cars up in the air by putting a pry bar in between the lower arm (right next to the balljoint)and the stub assy and lever down. The brakes are too small still unless you have Brembos. The standard territorys cant cope so they put bigger brakes for the turbo and they still dont dissapate enough heat causing hot spots and warpage.

Good things I can tell ya bout them is......they have alot of storage compartments,they have a nice turbo and have good grip in the wet with the power they have.

Eb.

You where right mate.Had the car inspected today before I got the front diff bushes done.

I need 2 front diff bushes.

2 lower balljoints.

3 rear diff bushes

rear shock bushes chewed out too.

Just fantastic news.

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  • Member For: 21y 10m 7d
  • Location: Brooklyn

Eb.

You where right mate.Had the car inspected today before I got the front diff bushes done.

I need 2 front diff bushes.

2 lower balljoints.

3 rear diff bushes

rear shock bushes chewed out too.

Just fantastic news.

I should also note that my front discs are warped badly and will require all new ones.

I have spoken to pedders and they have just bought out some new bushes for these cars that are alott cheaper than fords and better quality.They are the hardened red bushes.

They have at present

Complete lower front balljoints with the control arm and 2 bushes for $180.00 brand new

Centre rear diff bush $210.00 I think.

They are gearing up to do the outer rear bushes plus the 2 front bushes in the front for the diff.

There getting so much call for them as the kind fella said.

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  • Member For: 21y 10m 7d
  • Location: Brooklyn

Unlucky mate but hopefully once they are done you should be right. The harder bushes last longer but can give a bit more feedback/harshness. Still worth it though.

Thank you for your feedback as everything you suggested was shagged.Taa.

Pedders dont do the front diff bushes or the outer 2 rear diff yet but he did advise he is very pleased when a territory visits his workshop.2WD or 4WD

You where spot on.

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  • Member For: 21y 10m 7d
  • Location: Brooklyn

hahaha....we rub our hands together too. It costs much more at a Dealer than at Pedders too. Cant they just machine or surface grind your rotors or are they almost undersize?

You know the story mate.How long do discs last after a machine?500Ks.Waste of time.

Have been threw the DBA cross drilled and slottled stuff with my last Turbo ute and a waste of time.They just crack.

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