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Stallie


GR8XR6

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  • Member For: 17y 6m
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  • Location: south east suburbs

yes all the late model autos are zf kyle, I think from memory mauz's f6 had his stall modified 200rpm more than std and that's as far as u can go.

anything more than that and its limp mode.

Im sure someone could enlighten us more on the subject, give kewish a call they did all the work.

A convertor is not really needed on the zf auto as a few guys have run 1.6 60fts with the zf, one of problems with building up boost on the line with the zf is the tailshaft, have a look at some previous threads on this.

Edited by xr6t_ute
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  • Member For: 19y 4m 15d
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BTW, I don't run a trans cooler with 370rwkw and I haven't had a single sign of a problem from the auto in 18 months+. But I'd put that down to RVO's care in building the things.

The build of the auto has nothing to do with needing a trans cooler. There's 2 major reasons why people put trans coolers on.

The first and most important is to BYPASS the cooler in the radiator.. If you saw what it looked like, especially after a tranny failure. You'd want to change it also. They clog up and cause earily tranny failure.

And of course the second, being a better cooler than the radiator cooler. a Stall convertor Produces more heat, PERIOD. Heat is bad as it thins the oil, and essentially causes slip.

Also ask for a TCE not a dominator. Especially if you go through bayswater auto's. I had heaps of issues with their auto and with thier dominator convertor.

Your convertor problems were nothing to do with TCE / Dominator. Turns out there was a problem with the Dominator once they split it. Depending on the turn around time for the auto, they will either use TCE or Dominator. TCE is prefrence based on experiance anyways.

If you were to get a convertor, You wouldnt get a factory modified one. You can only go so far without loosing too much positive drive. Ideally you wanna go a smaller diameter convertor.

But in going smaller diameter convertor, You also loose Oil capacity = need better cooling capacity.

Stall speed isnt based on "wanting" 2800rpm. Its based on the torque your engine produces. More torque. The tighter the convertor will be.. Ie, 2 identical convertors in 2 seperate cars. one will do 3000rpm, and the other will do 2600rpm. Clearly the one that does 2600rpm produces more torque.

There was a hell of a lot more information I posted here, but I lost it pressing undo too many times. and I cbf re-typing it all.

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  • Member For: 17y 4m 7d
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The build of the auto has nothing to do with needing a trans cooler. There's 2 major reasons why people put trans coolers on.

I think you missed the point of what I said. The point was that even without a cooler, (which we all know keep temps down and can increase the lifespan of your auto due to it's heat reducing function) my trans has lasted 18+months with 370rwkw and it still feels snappy as bro. So with a cooler, it is more than likely some time would be added to it's lifepsan. My other point was that the longetvity and reliability I am current enjoying has to do what I think is build quality. Capiche! Looking back at what I said, I don't see where I intimated that the the build of the auto has something to do with needing a trans cooler. And by it's very name "trans cooler" I'd say it would be fairly easy to determine that the need for a trans cooler is dictated by the fact that you need to cool your trans :) So if your trans temps are getting too hot too often, you probably should get one.

:beerchug:

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I'll highlight the part....

BTW, I don't run a trans cooler with 370rwkw and I haven't had a single sign of a problem from the auto in 18 months+. But I'd put that down to RVO's care in building the things.

in saying that..

RWKW has nothing to do with it either.. I could have 500rwkw, but drive it like a grandma.. Without a trans cooler.. I can tell you my auto will last at least 3 years that way.

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No worries mate. Have fun driving like a grandma :)

For those interested in one of these converters they normally retail for $495. If we can get 5, the price will be $395. plus about $20 for delivery. Also, there is usually a $100 core charge but I've worked out a deal so you will not have pay a core charge and in fact, you will not have to send your old converter back at all. If we get below 5, they will be $445.

So how about a show of hands. If 2 or 3 people are interested, I'll start a group buy and if it goes through, I'll run it for 2 weeks with payments to be made within a week after that.

The converter's rated stall is 2500-3000rpm with most being around that 2700rpm mark. Now as we all know, it can be a pain trying to get a converter right because of differences in tunes. The good news is you will be able to send your converter back if it's outside of the rated stall speed range and try another one. Postage back to Torque Converter Industries will have to be paid by you though. And the converter will come with a 12 month warranty.

Cheers,

Steph.

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I haven't ran with this converter. But I'd say it would definitely be an improvement over stock. After fitting this converter and new coilpacks, I didn't loose any power. In fact, I picked up 20 odd rwkw after a retune with the new coilpacks and this converter. Want to be a guinea-pig!?

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The motor that has the most torque out of the identical cars will be the one that has the higher stall speed provided the convertors are the same.

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hey staughsberry I am very interested this convertor although I dont have the funds to get the box built as of yet. The point im trying to make is I guess, I dont want buy the convertor and have it sitting there for 12months then the warranty is void by the time it is installed. Is there anything that can be done in that regards or it just tuff titties? Does TCI build gearbox or just manifacture the convertors too, I heard they are around seven hills area, I am right around the corner so perhaps I can just pick it up?

Leo

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