Told This Was Normal... Not Happy Ford.

[Trough Lolly]

check your Diff bush... assuming its a sedan

[SuckSqueezeBangBlow]

I just had the diff bush replaced under warranty. the car went in for noisy suspension and very small amount of oil on a couple of the zf sump bolts. funny as the diff bush was absolutely fine about a month ago (@30,000kms), but when they put the car on the hoist at the workshop when I got there, it was completely collapsed.

I was told the oil on the sump was normal. mmm, not really convinced.

other than that I was very happy with the customer service at Brad Garlick Ford, even though I had to pay $38.50 for the lube and tightening of the front suspension (it has completely fixed the noisy front end though, and feels heaps more solid, steers better).

[seduced]

Diff bush was replaced 5000kms ago. Problem existed before that. However, after the diff bushes were done (as in when I picked it up from the dealer), the diff whined like crazy which I thought was strange..... diff has since been replaced.

Took the bump stops off and went for a drive. Its certainly better, but not completely gone. I get new tyres tomorrow plus the full alignment works so shall see how it is after that. Im just trying to think of ways to make ford replace these parts. This new guy just doesnt give a damn and shrugs it all off as normal.... pain in the ass!!

[dunc]

My BA had a similar problem when I first bought it.

The dealer I bought it from new of it and fixed it at the first service by balancing the drive shaft...

[seduced]

Yep. That was the dealers first idea. New diff, new entire tailshaft, inspected gearbox, still no dice.

Im positive the springs and tyres are the cause. After I removed the bump stops (which had 5mm clearance on a flat surface...crap springs) it definately improved, the logical explanation is the tyres are suffering some problems, which is then transfered to the cabin via the bump stops which the car sits on heavily whenever its under acceleration.

After tyre, my next stop is a full suspension set up. Then it should be right.

[Guest XR09]

I see this topic so often on the forums.

It seems to be common in Fords from the BA right through the FG. When I Replaced the suspension on mine @ 15,000 k's the guy showed me how shagged my old stuff was.

I do believe when you lower even the rear of a car it changes the wheel alighnment and diff angles? I bewieve I dont know?

Anyway if so, then that's not good and the bad has got to go somewhere and that where will always be the weakest point.

ie tyres, bushes and links.

So 15thou into a 100k warrenty and the shocks and springs are already starting a chain of destruction.

Sorry mr Ford but I dont accept that. And yep I know it's not just mr ford. And I just cant see they cant see that it would be better to use a better product in the first place.

So can someone really nice and who cares post the ride hight of std xr6's and f6's ....but I dont see this much from them. mmm stiffer springs ?

So if you know what your ride hight is then it's so easy to check it. If you have to much static sag then your springs must be stuffed.

This could stop a lot of grief for a lot of people.

[Ozzy]

What exhaust?

What engine speed is indicated at 20-40kph in 2nd & 3rd?

Could it be something as simple as being in the incorrect gear for the conditions?

Just throwing it out there ...

[seduced]

STD exhaust - 1st and second gears both have the problem. Its not engine speed related, just road speed. I understand why you are asking though.

Lairdy - I checked the BA workshop manual which states that the ride height for XRs can be from 340-420mm (measured from the centre of the wheel to the top of the wheel arch.) The large difference comes down to amount of fuel/gear in the back at the time. Also, I imagine they allow for a certain amount of sagging. Mine with no weight, 1/2 tank of fuel measured 355mm. 15mm above the lowest threshold.... that equals about 1.5 finger gap between top of the tyre and wheel arch. Definately sagged. Any car that is 350mm or lower would be sitting on the bump stops.

At 50,000kms, I would say my suspension is shot. The rear shocks are noisy, sagged springs and just crap over bumps etc.

Koni Reds and Kings for me. Mind you, I reckon I'll keep it std height. Lowering may cause too much stress on the tailshaft.

[SuckSqueezeBangBlow]

I'll be keeping stock height when its time to renew mine. man, I must be getting old...that, and its the first car I've had not lowered and I'm loving it.

I'm going to measure mine on the weekend.

[Guest XR09]

STD exhaust - 1st and second gears both have the problem. Its not engine speed related, just road speed. I understand why you are asking though.

Lairdy - I checked the BA workshop manual which states that the ride height for XRs can be from 340-420mm (measured from the centre of the wheel to the top of the wheel arch.) The large difference comes down to amount of fuel/gear in the back at the time. Also, I imagine they allow for a certain amount of sagging. Mine with no weight, 1/2 tank of fuel measured 355mm. 15mm above the lowest threshold.... that equals about 1.5 finger gap between top of the tyre and wheel arch. Definately sagged. Any car that is 350mm or lower would be sitting on the bump stops.

At 50,000kms, I would say my suspension is shot. The rear shocks are noisy, sagged springs and just crap over bumps etc.

Koni Reds and Kings for me. Mind you, I reckon I'll keep it std height. Lowering may cause too much stress on the tailshaft.

Thnx 80mm is a lot of sag. 420 would be at top sring hight too. Says why they ride a lot better than it's rival.

I went 45mm down all round, without any adverse affects. I used shortened stops and have not bumped out hard yet. Feels nice to get rid of that floaty feeling.

Measure it with an empty tank and nothing in it. You can bet your life they will if you go in and want to complain.

Edited 23/10/09 10:01 AM by XR09