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  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 2m 12d

I have the exact same problem with my tornado, its been sittin in the shed for a few depressing months while I saved the cash, I plan to pull the engine out and send it to atomic in a couple weeks, such an expensive exersize that no one warned me of when I had it tuned, I would have just done the oil pump in the first place if id known, seems this happens quite often.

let us know how it turns out and how much you had to get done

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  • RUS531
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 10m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Emerald QLD

that's good to know, I'm going to have further talks with brad this week to discuss my options regarding rebuilding. I dont want to have doubts about my motor...no shortcuts

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 6m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Wanneroo, Perth WA

if you are sure you stopped asap after seeing the no oil pressure sign on the dash I'd say you'll be fine. If it was me I'd pull the engine out and inspect on a stand to have peace of mind, put in new bearings if you are worried, new billet pump and housing, put the engine back in!

So did you hit the limiter to the point where it backs off the motor a bit?

  • RUS531
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 10m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Emerald QLD

no I didn't shut her off straight away... I had to wait at a set of lights before I could pull it off somewhere. it would have been a minute at least before I could shut it down.

  • RUS531
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 10m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Emerald QLD

People have suggested that I replace the pump, take a bearing cap of one of the mains and if its not to bad replace the lot anyway and put her back together. that's pefectly fine, I just don't want to have something fail in the future and wonder whether if it had something to do with previously starving the engine of oil.

Maybe it could be fine if I replaced all the bearings...I honestly wouldn't no I'm just a electrician. But from the industry I work in I have seen time over time when managers have done the cost effective way and its come back to bite them on the ar$e. If I send the engine down to brad as a long motor and get a better/fresh motor back, I will know I have a more or less brand new motor that will handle a bit of power and not have to be worried that this sort of thing will happen again or it will throw a leg out the side of the block. I know things can still break but tuning the new motor to a suitable/and sustainable power level, I'm trusting it will be pretty reliable for many years to come.

Thanks for all your comments and suggestions so far guys, I really appreciate them.

Cam

Edited by RUS531
  • 2 weeks later...
  • RUS531
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 10m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Emerald QLD

Ok the fun has began.....

So far ive got everything off and out except the exhaust manifold and turbo ect. I've taken the intake manifold off today with the help of gravelrash (greg), and shes looking pretty bare now.

So fellas whats your tips on geting the engine out. I asume you would undo all the bellhousing bolts, remove the starter motor, undo the top engine mount bolts and while lifting the engine up with a hoist try and seperate it from the gearbox with out sending the motor through the ac condensor. It was suggested to me that I also support the gearbox with a jack.

So fire away, the more hints the better! This is my first engine removal on any car, I'm usually working with electric motors.....

Edited by RUS531
  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 2m 30d
  • Gender: Male

I just take the engine and g/box out together in one hit with everything on it. I'm not a "try to join an auto gearbox and engine in the car" type of guy

Edited by turbotrana

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