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!Help! Lost All Oil Pressure


RUS531

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  • RUS531
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  • Member For: 18y 3m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Emerald QLD

Well I got it apart with some advice from Leigh and it appears that I have three of the holes cracked with some small cracks around the waste gate port....

I guess Im up for a new housing... bummer

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  • RUS531
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  • Member For: 18y 3m 23d
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  • Location: Emerald QLD

Ok, I talking to rotomaster today regarding a new turbine housing and they quoted about $850. This housing is a direct replacement for the standard housing but with a few minor changes to pass the ford patents. It apparently isn't the new FG housing as they aren't allowed to sell them any more. The reason why they were selling them is because had excess stock, hence why garret are making their own now with the few minor cosmetic differences.

The new housing is also made of the new compound and has the bigger flapper/port. A new actuator and adjustable arm is $100 bucks. Which brings me to my next question... What will the adjustable arm let me do for boost control? Or is it just there so when the turbo is back together you can set the flapper closed, like a one size fits all job.

A special thanks to Leigh from ETM for a bit of guidance in this area also.:beerchug:

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  • RUS531
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  • Member For: 18y 3m 23d
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Just an update....

The engine is now out and dam it was a tight fit... I don't know if it was because of the twin plate clutch on the F6's but there is no room between the firewall and the the top radiator support. I think its gonna be harder to get back in.

For those who have done this before is there any special way you found to remove/replace the engine.

On inspection of the engine mounts I found one that looks a bit ratty on the top with cracks in the rubber. This one happened to be on the drivers side so I'm thinking that the heat had something to do with it. The opposite side looks perfect so I will just replace the one.

Cameron

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  • Member For: 15y 7m 25d

im just about to start pulling mine out, any tips to make it easier would be great

so are you gonna open the engine up befor you send it to atomic? if so let us know if u have much damage, maybe some pics?

Brad.

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  • RUS531
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  • Member For: 18y 3m 23d
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Brad,

This being my first time pulling an engine out, I'm no expert, however these are some things I found.

The top bell housing bolts can be a real pain to undo if your car is on the ground and stands. I had to use two extensions and a uni on my socket to get to them.

When lifting your engine off the mounts mine wanted to lift from one side first but then the other side eventually came off. Once this happened I supported the gear box with a bottle jack and wiggled the engine forward. Once I got a bit of a gap between the bell housing and the motor I got a BIG flat screw driver (that's all I had at the time) and used it to lever the engine away from the gearbox. I think once it got free of the spigot bearing it became easier, just take your time.

As I said it is a VERY tight fit when the motor is just about out of the engine bay. If you found a way that is better or gives you some more room please share. If not, be very mindful of those solid break lines running across the top at the back.

No I wont be pulling it apart any further due to I don't have the time before I go back to work and I want it fixed ASAP (I miss cruising in her :clap:) and I really couldn't be bothered lol.

If anyone else could add to this for myself and BAF6 that would be awesome guys!

Cameron

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  • Member For: 15y 1m 2d
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  • Location: brisbane

well this has also happened to my 05 xr6t just last night... just about to get out of second gear and on came my oil light but I didnt think to look at my guage before I shut it off straight away. The noise coming from the engine was a strange one. I have a feelin mine is abit worse as I cant even turn my motor over. Is there any chance that this is a safety feature not lettin my engine to run??

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  • RUS531
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  • Member For: 18y 3m 23d
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Thanks for the suggestion Blueprintbullet :beerchug:

Matt, that doesn't sound good mate. Does your starter motor try to engage? There isn't a safety feature that I know of. What sort of noise did you hear?

P.S :buttrock:

Here are some new pictures.

post-9460-125816623437_thumb.jpg

post-9460-125816625311_thumb.jpg

The clutch. I don't what difference it will make but I marked the clutch assembly and fly wheel. with a paint pen so it can all go together the way it was. I also numbered all the bolts and holes. When lossening off I also did them bit by bit in a cross pattern.

post-9460-12581663643_thumb.jpg

Here's a couple of pictures of the flywheel and the flywheel side friction plate and pressure plate.

I wasn't going to bother taking it apart to look at the other plates.

post-9460-125816630672_thumb.jpg

post-9460-125816634015_thumb.jpg

post-9460-12581664065_thumb.jpg

Tell me what you think cause I don't know much about clutches at all, however apart from the couple of bright spots I thought it looked pretty good. It has done 73000ks

post-9460-125816628819_thumb.jpg

Edited by RUS531
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  • Member For: 15y 1m 2d
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  • Location: brisbane

hmmm the noise sounded like it was coming from the front of the motor.. a real light metal tapping sound. was quite loud. im pretty sure the starter was trying to work but there was no way it was turning over. The car has abit of work done to it, 10psi tune, injectors, fuel pump, cooler, 3.5inch zaust. im guessing I have done the same thing as you.

I will be callin elite auto first thing monday to book the car in for them to sus out wat has happened.

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