Sedan Fuel Pump Install How To

[trevs]

great write up but how much fuel came out when you cracked the fuel lines ive been thinking im gonna pull the fuel fuse while the car is at idle and let it run out of fuel to avoid some of the mess

anyone else done this ?

cheers trev

[Phooned]

great write up but how much fuel came out when you cracked the fuel lines ive been thinking im gonna pull the fuel fuse while the car is at idle and let it run out of fuel to avoid some of the mess

anyone else done this ?

cheers trev

Hey Trev,

I have done this. I pulled the fuse when the car was at idle. I then gave it a few minutes and turned it over (with the fuse off), the engine started and stalled again. I had just under 1/4 tank of fuel and the range was 139Ks. Just watch out for the sender wire when you disconnect them, they seem to head straight to the bottom of the tank!

There was just a trickle from the lines when I did mine this way. No mess.

Cheers,

AJ

Edited 05/07/09 01:32 AM by Phooned

[trevs]

cheers phooned

my fuel pump is in isnt really that bad a job to do yourself besides un doing thoses f*cking fuel lines of which I broke two of the little clips off on the return line still holds the hose on but that *beep* never coming off again without the little clips on the side to push forward for removel

checked for leaks pulled on all of them and everything is fine with the car running befor putting the back seat back in

cheers trev

[civillian]

Update: Fuel has become green from the green heatshrink, but not as badly as I would have thought. Heatshrink is still intact; very slow degrading when submerged.

[trevs]

fuel rated heat shrink ( neoprene ) costs a crap load of money ive used it in the past at work a few times to seal connectors its about 300 or 400 bucks for each boot about the size of small coke bottle

I just used the crimps that came with the pump or you can buy them from jcar, dicksmith or if you really want to go overboard 3m electrical make some stuff as well but I really wouldnt be that worried about it as long as what ever ou use stops a dead short from happening

after all the pump sits in fuel and the conector on the end of the fuel pump isnt sealed

cheers trev

[gu4800]

now you have to join the ford wiring to the supplied Walbro wiring loom. I have seen this done with crimps/connectors but I soldered and heat shrinked mine

Here is a much much better solution for this aspect:

1) snip the factory wires off the plug that goes into the top of the cradle

2) strip enough wire back on the Walbro loom to join two female blade connectors*

3) remove the old female blade connectors from the factory plug with a watch makers screw driver (the old "precision screw driver")

4) insert the new female blade connectors joined to the Walbro loom into factroy plug

5) plug back in to the cradle

No solder, no joining.

* TIP: remove the old female blade connectors from the factory plug and take them down to Repco. They are not quite a standard female connector (from memory) but Narva make them. Just have a look at the Narva book and you'll find them. Oh, and the MUST have the locking lug on them so that they stay inside the plug.

Something like this:

Cheers

Dan

[XAH03]

great write up but how much fuel came out when you cracked the fuel lines ive been thinking im gonna pull the fuel fuse while the car is at idle and let it run out of fuel to avoid some of the mess

anyone else done this ?

cheers trev

when I did mine I had the car turned off, pulled the fuse then started the car, it ran for a few second then turned off. that got rid of most of the fuel in the lines

cheers phooned

my fuel pump is in isnt really that bad a job to do yourself besides un doing thoses f*cking fuel lines of which I broke two of the little clips off on the return line still holds the hose on but that *beep* never coming off again without the little clips on the side to push forward for removel

checked for leaks pulled on all of them and everything is fine with the car running befor putting the back seat back in

cheers trev

yep the connections are a pain in the a$$, they are a push-pull type of thing.

[Redback]

Here is a much much better solution for this aspect:

1) snip the factory wires off the plug that goes into the top of the cradle

2) strip enough wire back on the Walbro loom to join two female blade connectors*

3) remove the old female blade connectors from the factory plug with a watch makers screw driver (the old "precision screw driver")

4) insert the new female blade connectors joined to the Walbro loom into factroy plug

5) plug back in to the cradle

No solder, no joining.

* TIP: remove the old female blade connectors from the factory plug and take them down to Repco. They are not quite a standard female connector (from memory) but Narva make them. Just have a look at the Narva book and you'll find them. Oh, and the MUST have the locking lug on them so that they stay inside the plug.

Something like this:

Cheers

Dan

Did the same thing but instead of buying new terminals I was able to undo the crimp, insert the wiring in, crimp and solder. Worked a treat.

[civillian]

I've been working on a similar solution to Dan's aswell. That sounds like the proper proceedure to me...

[civillian]

Dan, could you supply the part number of the female blade connectors for our cars?

N