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Mystery Power Steering Leak Ba Xr6t Try To Work This One Out!


bluesmuso

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  • Member For: 17y 6m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia

Ok, this morning I drained the reservoir and undid the 16mm nut and removed the hose.

I had a good look at it with a mirror and bright torch, I could not see any evidence of a crack, but a smaller hairline crack would be very difficult to see even if the entire pump was pulled out.

But what I did see was that the O-ring (which is new) was completely f****d.

So I replaced the o-ring and also placed an o-ring from a tap spindle (which is a fatter tougher slightly larger o-ring on the other side of the flared end which butts up against the 16mm nut and outer part of the hole in the pump and then put some gas fitter's tape on it and put it all back together and re-filled the reservoir.

I took it for a drive and once warmed up gave it a bit and when I got home found no evidence of any leaks.

I'll see how long it lasts.

The inner o-ring is very small and would not take much to break the seal (450nm @2000 rpm would not help)

I am hoping the other larger o-ring from the tap spindle will help as this will form a direct seal between the 16mm nut and the face where it tightens up rather than the previous "metal on metal" situation, I am also hoping that the tap spindle o-ring (along with the gas fitter tape) will add some stability to prevent any sideways movement of the pipe which would break the seal with engine torque. (That's if the tap spindle o-ring will cope with high temp)

It is obviously a poor design when you find yourself "retro fitting" to solve such problems.

So far I'm GUARDEDLY optimistic, but it's too early to tell I will know within a few days if what I've done has remedied the issue, if not, out comes the pump for closer inspection (plan B) I'll keep you posted.

Thanks heaps guys for your input so far, Bluesmuso.

P.S. I'd rather 450nm and a power steering leak than 300nm and no leaks, but then again 450nm and no leaks would be great, we'll get there.

Edited by bluesmuso
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  • Member For: 17y 6m 21d
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UPDATE: = Didn't have to wait very long.......Bloody fail, still leaks if I boot it too much!

Adrian6T the reason I've been blaming the torque is because it only leaks when I get up it, last week I took it really easy (grandma style) and not a drop for two days, then I passed a parked bus and booted it in 1st to get past before the oncoming car got too close and then pulled over to check and power steering fluid everywhere.

The torque probably creates a torsional (twisting) stress on the power steering line thus breaking the seal momentarily. But after today I am not so sure of my tenacious detective work because the power steering fluid is all over the underneath of the bonnet in perfect line with the pulley seal/bearing.

I think I've been barking up the wrong tree!

Mic I think you are right in that it is more than likely coming from a seal behind the pulley, if it was leaking from the 16mm nut under the pump like I've been suggesting how does the fluid end up under the bonnet?

Is there only one pulley seal there? I think Ford do a pump seal kit for $$$$$$

And does it need a special tool to remove and replace it?

First I'll have to figure out how to remove the drive belt but that shouldn't be too hard.

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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
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  • Member For: 16y 9m 11d
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  • Location: Adelaide

bud all I can say I had the leaky hose problem like most took it to ford payed the megga bucks and not a drip scince they(ford) did say it was a unservicable sealed unit maybe to cope with the high pressure un like your repco unit

maybe time to bite the bullet and go to fords and let them do it and if it fails the blame can be put back on them works for me

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  • Member For: 17y 6m 21d
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Yes I thought of that but I'm scared of Ford replacing the hose again and then a new pump as well and although I will no longer have a power steering leak I will also have no money left for a flash tune.

I think I'll either replace the pump or buy a pump seal kit (Repco do them about $20) but I think in spite of being far cheaper replacing the seals would be a far more difficult job than replacing the pump.

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  • Member For: 17y 6m 21d
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Turbo Jet, the Ford genuine replacement hose is "non serviceable" due to an internal circlip which clicks holding the hose in place for rapid assembly on the production line, it is infact a serviceable replacement part (the nut is $14.00 from ford but you have to carefully split the old nut to remove it first, it is the nut which usually needs replacing (apparently the internal o-ring goes) unless the actual hose is damaged which would be more likely on higher mileage older vehicles.

The replacement genuine hose from ford is an absolutely ridiculous $347.00 for the Turbo models, the Repco replacement hose is fine as long as the O-ring is up to it and costs $86 for an virtually identical hose, I doubt whether there would be a difference in high pressure ratings between the hoses, if the Repco one was not up to it surely they could not market and sell it, having seen both genuine and Repco hoses up close I didn't think that the O-rings on either were thick enough and looked as if they'd fail easily.

But I see your point Turbo Jet once Ford has fixed it if it leaks afterward they have to warranty their work by rectifying post mechanical problems, it's a good point you made, but I really don't like mechanics buggering with my car unless I have no other choice.

In retrospect I think my leak is from the pump seal behind the pulley (thanks mic)

Edited by bluesmuso
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  • T.P.I.S.
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  • Member For: 20y 3m 11d
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  • Location: SoR, WA

I am the same as you.

My car only went back to Ford once after 1 month (was still stock) of owning it for warranty work and I took an oath that I would never take it to them again.

The cars only 6 months old now and pumping out some good pony's but I might just take it to them with a valet tune in it for safety sake. Cant really knock back a power steering pump and I am pretty good with the dealer.

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  • Member For: 17y 6m 21d
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Can anyone here tell me whether replacing the seals is a hard job or not?

I am assuming that simply replacing the pump is the easier solution but replacing the seals is certainly the cheaper option.

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