Heater Gone?

[lukus]

def the shaft brokie

I can do the intire job in under 1.5 hrs

have done about 40 did one today 1.25 hrs

helps when u no excat wat to do etc

anyone in adelaide need one done ill do cashies 350 supplied and fitted on a weekend

wish u lived in melb, I'd have one for u to do. 350 is a penny in the bucket compared to the 1200 dollar "all day, big drama, half interior out job" I got qouted. I know it might be hard but could u pls pm me a ruff idea on how to do it and also the part that is need pls, I cant keep putting up with the 2 degrees at 4:30 am anymore haha. cheers.

[GR8XR6]

If you all chip in for flights! Cheapass tickets with Jetstar you all could win! Get mike over for a weekend jaunt! If there are a few people with the same propblem might be worth looking into! Just a suggestion! I'm sure Mike would be up for a free trip to Melbourne! Fix cars by day get pissed by night! LOL

You might even get yourself aound australia! LOL MORE HERE

Edited 16/06/09 02:11 PM by GR8XR6

[Trough Lolly]

my heater core in my VT Late model camira shat itself.... smelt like curry & pepper.

Quoted around to fix it, $120 part..... $1300 installed.

I sold it smelling like pepper and curry.

[Mike XR6T]

ok guys, id love to be able to travel the country and fix heaters in fords all the time, but I dont travel out of sa allt hat much :( and by the time I do it will no doubt be to late, if u r all that desperate id me more than happy to do a "group buy: lolololool- seriously

but I will definatly do a HOW TO for u guys as I hate to see forum members get ripped!

for those that cant wait for pics and a propper right up ill do a breifie now feel free to ask questions ill try to sort ya out

[Mike XR6T]

Grab a Beer and Read INTIRLY before starting

0.) set heater to hot and vents to face and then disconnect battery

1.) raise seat up and unscrew 3 hand brake bolts on the drivers side to get hand brake away from console- it clips to console so when loose lift it and move to drivers side to clear console.

2.)pull gear stick surround UP and off

3.) unscrew 2 console sides with phillips head- 1 screw a side and remove

4.) move both seats forward and unscrew 8mm gutter bolts in both sides of rear of console

5.) seats back

6.) undo 4X 8mm gutter bolts in top of console next to selector and 1X phillips head to loosen console

7.) undo 2X phillips holding cig lighter mount in and remove, disconnecting wiring

8.) undo 2X phillips holding front of console to dash

9.) pull hole console up from rear, if still tight some have 2X clips under carpet in center console storage area(move to side to disengauge)

10.)remove console from car

11.) beer

12.) take top of ICC using flat screwdrive of the like lifting from rear until it unclips

13.) remove 1X screw from behind

14.) under ICC disconnect arial plug(black) and 4X plug connectors from ICC starting left and working right( bit tricky may need a light and mirror to figure out the clips)

15.) undo 4X 8mm screws from the sides 2 a side and pull ICC forward until it is clear of the dash- MOVE CAREFULLY AND STORE UPRIGHT

16.) remove lower steering shroud 3X phillips head screws from the bottom

17.) disconnect 4/5X plug connectors going to colomb

18.) undo 1X 10mm bolt in bottom of colomb holding steering shaft to steering rack left of brake pedal(if it spins use a 13mm spanner to hold otherside)

19.) undo 4X 10mm Bolts holding upper section of colomb to dash and remove intire colomb from car(do this with steering centered)

20.) remove fuse box cover and use a screw driver to "pry" the bonet release down and towards front of car to unclip

21.) remove A pillar covers by pulling away from pillar at the top and working down until off on both sides.

22.) in top center of dash remove small 6" cover from dash near windscreen using a pik etc and loosen allen key bolt- dont remove just loosen(6mm from memory)

23.)on both sides of dash, remove side panels by prying off, dont worry 1 clip each side will break but it doesnt matter, it can hardly be helped.

24.) on both sides pull kick panels away from sides, manipulating them so u have acess to the wiring plugs(they wont break they are very flexible)

25.) dissconect 4ish plugs on both sides and pull white plug mount from kick panel area(ull no what I mean) it needs to be forced out as the sh*t plastic clips hold it in

26.) left hand side needs arial disconnected, pul black outer clip doen and pull other half to disconnect it.

27.)undo the long 10mm bolt in the bottom of center console area

28.) while in the area on the pass side is a plug infront of that bolt for the srs module, black plug with white housing, pull towars pass side to disconnect

29.) undo the 10mm bolt nere clutch pedal area that holds metal bracket to firewall30.) undo the 1X 10mm bolt either side that is right in nere the top door hinge and loosen right off till it dangels in the door hinge area

31.)undo the 2X 10mm bolts either side that hold the dash in

32.) with help from mate pull the dash forward from the center and once it clears the selector, hand brake and firewall work it out the passanger door with out scratching anything .

ONCE OUT: Beer

33.) disconnect him module floor vent control rod(steel) -HIM is grey module on left side of heater box- rod has a yellow clip to disconnect

34.) disconnect 3X wiring plugs to module(4 if dual zone)

35.) unscrew 3X screws that hold module in 2 in left side and 1 under screwed to fire wall

36.)carefully remove module, manipulating it away from the 3 rods it controls( they r flexible dont be scared(black blue and green I think))

37.)remove 6X phillips from very top of heater box and remove that panel

IF REPLACING HIM STOP HEAR, FIT NEW HIM AND REFIT DASH- Id replace rod to be safe as its cheap as

38.) remove 6X phillips from front of box

39.) gentelly pull front down(bottom will still be joined)

40.) u should be able to clearly see if the rod is broken now as if it was in tact the HIM would be hard to egt out as rob would be still engauged to it.( the plastic drive gear in the HIM can be pushed out to the pass side to disengauge the rod if it is intact and your just doing the HIM)

41.) remove the broken rod by slowly working it out, making sure u suport all 4 flap hinge points as they are prone to break.a mate is handy now! u dont wanna flex the flaps just slide the rod straight out to the left. (if dual zone u will have 2 short rods an extra step is required, remove the servo motor on the drivers side and slide your extra rod out the drivers side)

42.) fit the new rod(rods) with the same care to remove

43.)once your happy with the rod fitment, making sure the flap edges(bushes) are located in the heater box sides, reassemble the box

44.) once box is re assembled fit the HIM with the gear drive pushed left to the disengauge position

45.) refit HIM allowing the control rods to fit to the flaps they opperate corectly.

46.) lift the heater flaps u just fixed up so they are in the full hot postition(up and forwassd so heater core is visible) and then push the HIM drive gear right so it engauges the rod( dont worry if it doesnt line up perfect the HIM will self test and align its sefl anyway.

47.) REFIT in reverse order the DASH etc

48.) remomber to refit the ICC connectors in reverse of removal, replug the lower plugs left to right.

49.) when its all back together connect the battery and opperate as usual the HIM should self test and adjust itself as required.

50.) if u fitted a New HIM take the car to a sparky or ford to have it programmed to your car

The HIM is the same part regardless of model variant it is just coded differantly.

If Mods wanna make this sticky I can modify when I do picks next time I do one that will make it much easier than starting from scratch

if I left anything out please let me no:)

tools required

phillips head screw driver

8mm Socket

10mm Socket

pik or flat screw driver

6mm allen key

maybe an adjustable rench to remove shifter if manual

10mm spanner(battery)

[lukus]

Mate thanks heaps for the intsructions/essay haha, only one complaint.....I think u left a few steps out, at steps 3,6,9,12....shouldnt they be reserved for beer? And you left the main tool required out "the Slab" lol. seriously though thanks heaps again....I still think I'd rather part with the 350 then tackle this one haha seen as youve gone to the troble to write it out I'll do it. only one question whats the part number/name for the broken flap/shaft thingy?

[ryancross]

HI,

Thanks for the tutorial, saved me a bunch of cash.

I did this over the weekend and only took me 3 hours from start to finish.

A couple of things:

It is a 5mm allen key needed for the dash bolt up near the windscreen, (not 6mm)

Part was $60 from ford, and does have the re-inforced metal rod now.

Once all put back together I found the airbag light would flash and stay on after this. I was dreading to have to remove the dash again to fix, however I found a yellow plug down between the drivers seat and door had become unplugged.

Plugged it back in and the light has gone away.

If you follow this tutorial to the letter, you should not have any problems.

Thanks again