YIANZ Member 19 Member For: 15y 8m 22d Gender: Male Location: Oakleigh Posted 13/04/09 02:10 PM Share Posted 13/04/09 02:10 PM (edited) sorry I am a tiny bit of a newbie but I do have a bit of knowledge of xr6's from scanning the forums and just talking to my mates day and night about cars (xr's in particular)Ok, now there probably is another thread out for this but none seem to totally sum up everything needed for this conversion.now I know a few people have done this and I personally know one person who has done this to his ba xr but we have had a fall out and cease to speakxr6 turbo engines are always popping up on ebay for peanuts (like 2-3g's) but if I was to actually buy one, could I have an actuall list of anything else I would/might needI know about the flaming of n/a kids saying they are going to bolt on aftermarket turbos and the turbo kids sayin they are stupid and should just buy a whole xr6t but it seemed relatively easy for my mate to do to his n/a and he's pulling 250 at the wheels easy, so given I know the history of my car (my dad bought it at new) I would think this was the 2nd best step to getting a T rather than buying someone elses 2nd hand not knowing where it has beenso what I really would like to know is what do I really need AND is it THAT much easier just to buy a T because if that's the case, id rather supercharge Edited 13/04/09 02:14 PM by YIANZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gezza Member 110 Member For: 15y 7m 28d Gender: Male Location: wa bunbury Posted 14/04/09 02:24 AM Share Posted 14/04/09 02:24 AM just swap the engine and loom over wont be that hard one of thye teckies will comfirm though...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YIANZ Member 19 Member For: 15y 8m 22d Gender: Male Location: Oakleigh Posted 14/04/09 06:38 AM Author Share Posted 14/04/09 06:38 AM that's what I was thinking but would the transmission and everything need strenghtening or is it the same stuffmy car has the factory fitted lsd im pretty sure but would that even make a difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueboost Member 1,204 Member For: 20y 5m 18d Gender: Male Location: Mackay NorthQueensland Posted 14/04/09 09:27 AM Share Posted 14/04/09 09:27 AM just tuned one the other day, it was a xt, he used the standed loom, put a 9 lb actuator on, and a blead valve(controlled boost manualy,and put a process west kit on it, (auto stock) he ran it at the drags last week with just street tyres, spun to half track, and ran 13.00 @120mphauto feels fine, and is handling the power nicely, with the right settings in the tune. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phooned Member 72 Member For: 17y 5m 6d Gender: Male Location: SE Melbourne Posted 20/04/09 12:23 PM Share Posted 20/04/09 12:23 PM (edited) G'Day,I recently installed a Typhoon motor and a T gearbox in my BA MkII Fairmont Ghia. It was a fairly straight forward job. I wanted a factory like installation.I needed a fuse box with loom from a T (as it has extra wires for the Boost Control Solenoid and Wastegate Actuator). Mine did not have any of the required looms unfortunately (but it wasn't an XR to begin with!). I am told that all the required wires are part of the loom and come pre-installed in every XR6. Your's should hopefully have all the necessary wires taped away in the factory loom (just look in your engine bay to confirm). Parts needed:1) Engine with loom, PCM and all turbo piping - Make sure the PCM (ECU) you purchase matches the gearbox you are installing (I.e. Auto/Manual)2) Power steering cooler lines - You need to replace this with one from a T as the N/A and T have different mounting points (due to the intercooler).3) XR6T/V8 radiator - This is a must as it has a bigger core and will provide peace of mind. I used one from ADRAD.4) Wastegate Solenoid - Part No (as on invoice) F*BAT9W487A. There are two rubber pipes/hoses that come off the solenoid and there is a bracket to hold it in place. You can pick all of this up from ford spare parts. This solenoid plugs into the loom under the fuse box (the loom will be taped away).5) Engine wiring harness - Part No. (as on invoice) F*BA12A690A. The PCM on the Ts have a third plug (to control boost pressure). This harness runs from the third plug on the PCM to a plug under the airbox (this should again be taped away in the N/A XR6 loom). That loom then runs across the engine bay to the boost control solenoid, which is located in the under battery pipe. Wiring for the boost control solenoid will again be - you guessed it - taped away under the battery tray!6) LSD diff, tailshaft - the LSDs used in Ts differ from the LSDs used in N/A apparently. You might have to change this.7) If you haven't already got bigger brakes - get them now! Transmission - I replaced the factory transmission that came with my N/A motor with one from a T as they apparently have beefier internals. You can either replace your current transmission or rebuild it. The housing and everything match up between the N/A and T motors - no dramas.9) Exhaust - Get a stock XR6T/aftermarket exhaust. Depending on the parts you get with your motor, you might need to buy a complete exhaust including the dump pipe from turbo. They mount up to the N/A points no problem.10) Fusebox and loom - As mentioned above, if the required wires are not in your engine bay, pick up a fuse box from a T and you should be set!It is all pretty much plug and play.The stock N/A fuel pump is capable of providing enough juice to a stock/slightly modded T motor. Once everything is installed, you need to link the BEM to the PCM (or ECU). Ford can do this fir you with their WDS - they actually are pretty reasonable to do this for once!Remove the fuel pump fuse and crank/turn the motor over a few times to get the oil flowing. Put the pump fuse back, turn the key and listen as your beast roars to life!Cheers,AJ Edited 20/04/09 12:29 PM by Phooned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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